Rafters

[Sanddoc]

Hello All
Newbie, hope I can learn from all of you.
I am in need of suggestions about the rafters in my home.
house is 60 yo, never been termited (tented)
The rafter ends are mostly shreaded, eated my termites...
I had made an attemp to repair the ends, but it was not very succesfull.
I am thinking of just replacing all the long rafters (20') 2 x 4x 20'
I'll do the work myself.
Does anyone have comments on this?
I know what I would need to do, and how to go about it. just wondering what others might have to
say..
Best
Dave

 

[nealtw]

Rafter ends, we call tails, they are the piece between the wall and the fascia How long is that section. Does the damage extend further into the roof.
If you want to replace rafters, will you be removing sheeting?
.

 

[Sanddoc]

from what I can see the damage continues further up the Rafter..
I was not thinking of removing sheeting at the same time
$$$$, as I do need a new shingle roof
And I just don't that that type of cash on hand right now...
plus there are at least 3 layers and maybe 4 on the roof...

 

[nealtw]

from what I can see the damage continues further up the Rafter..
I was not thinking of removing sheeting at the same time
$$$$, as I do need a new shingle roof
And I just don't that that type of cash on hand right now...
plus there are at least 3 layers and maybe 4 on the roof...

There should be no more than 2 layers of roofing, so you are overloaded now.
If it just a few rafters here and there you can just replace pieces and scab a joint but two or three in a row would be pushing your luck.
The biggest problem is always attaching sheeting to new but if you are stripping the roof at the same time that will not be a problem.
Old lumber in reasonable condition can be left in place just paint the effected area with copper treatment and sister new beside it.
If they have got further up into the building you could have top of wall problems too.
Inspecting with an awl, ice pick or sharp screw driver would give you an idea how far they have got.
It would be nice to know the extent of the damage from outside, soffit area and the attic area.
A can of spay paint in hand when you do inspection is handy to mark bad spots or good spots or the end of bad spot or something. So it is easy to see and find and remember when the work starts.
Is this one side of the house or both? gable roof? hip roof?

 

[Sanddoc]

Yes I know the roof is over loaded... last done in 89
I'll tell you how bad the Rafter\tails are, A board just curled up
pulling the nail with it..hahah
I think my plan is this, start taking out the rafters one at a time
I'll get a friend to help.. I'll use a saws all with a side blade
and cut those nails holding the sheathing on.. then I'll cut
the nails on the outside header, the on the ridge, than I can help
put the Rafter out.. My friend can then feed me a new one and
I'll just reverse the process...
It will take time, and the summer is not the best time to be
doing this... so I might wait until Sept..
I've checked around the house over the years, and there were
some wall damage, but nothing major and they seem to be gone...
Best
Dave

 

[nealtw]

Yes I know the roof is over loaded... last done in 89
I'll tell you how bad the Rafter\tails are, A board just curled up
pulling the nail with it..hahah
I think my plan is this, start taking out the rafters one at a time
I'll get a friend to help.. I'll use a saws all with a side blade
and cut those nails holding the sheathing on.. then I'll cut
the nails on the outside header, the on the ridge, than I can help
put the Rafter out.. My friend can then feed me a new one and
I'll just reverse the process...
It will take time, and the summer is not the best time to be
doing this... so I might wait until Sept..
I've checked around the house over the years, and there were
some wall damage, but nothing major and they seem to be gone...
Best
Dave

So will you be stripping the roof first, so that you can re nail the sheeting.

So, I would.
leave the old for now, add new rafters on the other side of the ceiling joists.
When the roofing has been stripped the sheeting can be repaired as needed and nailed to the new rafters, Nails to the old rafters would be pulled with a cat's paw nail puller. If you plan on a ridge vent you would also gain access to cut the nails at the top of the rafters with a re cip saw.

 

[Sanddoc]

I think that is basically what I was thinking...
I don't really see any other way. trying anything else would
just be a waste of time, money..
Best

 

[Snoonyb]

L.B allows 3 layers of comp. shingles, which is irrelevant for the project you are facing.

Roofers in your area call a striping crew for roof clearing, they charge by the square and the layers.

Are you sure your rafters are 2x4 and not 2x6 or 2x8, with the tails cut to 2x4, which is common.

How long are the rafter tails?

Even with 2x6 or 2x8, you'll have a purlin rafter and bracing to deal with.

You'll also need to add the shear blocking above the top plate.

 

[nealtw]

L.B allows 3 layers of comp. shingles, which is irrelevant for the project you are facing.

Roofers in your area call a striping crew for roof clearing, they charge by the square and the layers.

Are you sure your rafters are 2x4 and not 2x6 or 2x8, with the tails cut to 2x4, which is common.

How long are the rafter tails?

Even with 2x6 or 2x8, you'll have a purlin rafter and bracing to deal with.

You'll also need to add the shear blocking above the top plate.

Which is more important, shear blocking or venting? Or is there a work around for both.

 

[Snoonyb]

Attic venting required by code eave vents are common. The shear blocking is both vertical and horizontal, and one needs to be there.

2x4 rafters are a thing of the past and both LA City and County have excluded span tables for them.

 

[Sanddoc]

The house was built in 1957.. I'm not sure about the
2 x 6 or 2 x 4... I'll need to check but it makes no difference
I'll replace what I have to..
anyway, think I have it worked out...
Best