ready to finish rough-ins in basement

Discussion in 'Bricks, Masonry and Concrete' started by micgall, Sep 7, 2008.

  1. Sep 7, 2008 #1

    micgall

    micgall

    micgall

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    I am finishing up my rough-ins for the toilet and would like to confirm the final steps.

    1) connecting a toilet-offset flange; do I caulk or glue?
    2) same with the shower drain?
    3) which concrete type should I use for the patch work and should I maintain the same concrete depth as the floor 4" or can I fill with stone and go to 2"?

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  2. Sep 8, 2008 #2

    handyguys

    handyguys

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    I cant tell from your pictures for sure.

    The offset flange - Should be connected with whatever is required for materials its made from. Assuming its PVC then you would use glue. There are no circumstances I can think of where caulk would be used.

    Shower drain - No caulk or glue here. Your shower pan will have instructions for its particular drain connection. Get the pan before you go any further. Many pans will connect to the drain with a rubber gasket. The rough in plumbing location is critical. Dry fit everything before glueing if using PVC.

    As for concrete - You can use sacrete concrete. The bagged stuff. Also sold as quickcrete. No need for 'high strength' or 'fast setting'. I would do it to the same 4". Make sure your pipes are supported by the gravel fill underneath.
     
  3. Sep 9, 2008 #3

    micgall

    micgall

    micgall

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    Thanks for the reply
    PS ...
    can I pour concrete on concrete to build my slope for my shower pan? for example from 1" to 1/2" toward the drain.
     
  4. Sep 10, 2008 #4

    glennjanie

    glennjanie

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    Hello Micgall:
    I would cut out all of the shower area and put 4" of concrete back on the slope. You can build it up with rock. The minimum thickness of concrete, alone or on top of another pour, is 2".
    Glenn
     
  5. Sep 10, 2008 #5

    micgall

    micgall

    micgall

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    Glennjanie,
    That is smart idea (cut out the entire shower base to gravel); I would never have considered that. Although you are trippling my work.

    What would be the possible consequences of going this way...
    placing a bond break (felt-paper) at the floor slab, then building up a more shallow slope with thin set or concrete (minimum thickness of 1/2")... This will help me to better understand best pratices.
     
  6. Sep 10, 2008 #6

    handyguys

    handyguys

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    When I responded I didn't realize you were not doing a pre-fabbed shower base. I would NOT recommend going down the path you are considering. Use a premade base.

    You can get them in marble, solid surface, corian, PVC, acrylic and others. Trust me, it will make life a lot easier and will be less prone to leaks.
     
  7. Sep 10, 2008 #7

    micgall

    micgall

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    You guys ARE good! I have decided then to go with the pre-fab. I will need only corrected a shortened drain but considering the work and potential problems I am avoiding... better bang for the buck. Thanks.

    Since I have found this site, I will certianly follow your postings (and be wiser for it).
     
  8. Sep 10, 2008 #8

    handyguys

    handyguys

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