Rebar exposed in footing

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tomtheelder2020

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31 views but no replies to post in "Framing and Foundations" so re-posting here.

The upper portion of the footing across the back door to my garage broke off years ago. A section of rebar is exposed and is somewhat rusted (see photo). I figure that, at minimum, I need to use something like Rust Reformer to treat the steel. I would like to rebuild the missing concrete but unsure what to use. The problem in selecting a material is that my house is built on expansive clay soil so there is seasonal movement. The good news is that at 70 years old there are a few spots with hairline cracks in the footing but this is the only bad location. I know a "fix" would be major work but any suggestions what I can use to rebuild this to avoid further deterioration and improve the aestehtics are appreciated. Thanks.
Footing Rebar.jpg
 
The "fix" is just to wire brush the rebar, form it and pour some concrete, which may or may not, eventually be somewhere near the same color.
 
Snoonyb, thanks for the response. I was uneasy about concrete because the pour will be so thin - about 2" at the crack. However, you have gotten me to think it through a little more. Unless someone else has a better idea, I will try to chip away so that there will be a little more space under the exposed rebar, hopefully giving the new piece something to hold onto. As to color, I will likely paint it red so that the step is less of a tripping hazard.
 
There was a product where I grew up called Top 'n Bond, I think it is similar to what Bud linked. You want a product without aggregate in it so you can spread it thin. This isn't structural, so you're looking for a cosmetic fix to your problem.
 
You can also mix in some liquid latex modifier in place of some of the water.
It makes the finished concrete more flexible and improves the bond.
And get a wide cheapo paintbrush to brush on the bonding agent that mabloodhound suggested.
 
Search on Google, you want a concrete repair mix that typically is used to repair concrete steps.
Just Google that, there are several big names.

They can go a few inches thick, and will survive being troweled to a feather edge.
Most will be gray color, but you are painting anyway.
Don’t paint if for a few months, til it fully cures.

You can drill the damaged concrete and screw in a few Tapcon screws here and there, to give the patch something to grab onto.
 
Mabloodhound and Jeff Handy, I have never heard of those products – they are exactly the kind of advice I was looking for. Jeff, I had thought about maybe trying to drill holes and epoxy in wire loops as anchors but your approach sounds much better. Thanks to you both!!!
 
One important step that he skipped is, after brushing and vacuuming up all dust and loose chips, and knocking off anything ready to fall off anyway, hose off the damaged concrete, then blot up all standing water, then let dry for a day or two.
Because just brushing and vacuuming will still often leave dust trapped in small cracks and rough spots.
Dust will hurt the adhesion of the new concrete.
Then water can sneak in behind it and it will gradually fail over years.
If you are in a hurry, you can skip the hosing off, and use a leaf blower to blow the heck out of the surface, AFTER you brush and vacuum it.
 
Jeff, great video and tips. I might wait for warmer weather and longer days but will try to remember to post a picture of the finished product. Thanks.
 

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