Removing load bearing wall?

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Snoonyb said:
Actually, you're all over the place;
#2The posts you put in will be point loads so they need support all the way to the foundation. So if you have a crawlspace, there will be some work to do down there. Not much.

If I was doing this much work I would go the extra and put the full length LVLs flush so I had a clean open ceiling.

#8Depending on the style of girder, I doubt it was designed to take a point load in the center.

#10And the new posts will land at X inches from one pier and X inches from another pier and so on.

#12Slide hangers onto the ends of every ceiling joist then nail the 2x12s together with 4 nails every 16" and slide that up into place,

#192x12s would be over kill, LVLs would be a waist of money.
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Yes there was confusion because the OP said the wall was sitting above a 32 ft long floor girder, we got to the right information because I wasted time and posts digging deeper to get the correct information. :thbup:
 
nealtw said:
Yes there was confusion because the OP said the wall was sitting above a 32 ft long floor girder, we got to the right information because I wasted time and posts digging deeper to get the correct information. :thbup:
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The photo in post #9 tells part of the story, but what is missing is the roof bracing, and advocating 2-2X12's for a 16' span, without an engineers stamp, is simply folly, because the arbitrary rule, with the building dept., is 1" of height for each lineal foot of span.

So, why I would advocate a larger header, be it an LVL or dimensional lumber, over the time and material method, should be obvious.
 
Snoonyb said:
The photo in post #9 tells part of the story, but what is missing is the roof bracing, and advocating 2-2X12's for a 16' span, without an engineers stamp, is simply folly, because the arbitrary rule, with the building dept., is 1" of height for each lineal foot of span.

So, why I would advocate a larger header, be it an LVL or dimensional lumber, over the time and material method, should be obvious.
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Sorry i actually have a pic of roof. Standard hip roof that is hand built with cross members running width of roof. In red circle is where wall is that i am removing.

1494597352659.jpg
 
Thanks, that's good information.

Usually, in stick built construction there are braces from the ridge and purlin rafter, (which you do not have), terminating at a bearing wall effectively spreading the roof loads to another foundation point.
 
Ok it has taken me awhile to get everything ripped up and to get measurements for this. So far i have a glued triple 2x12 dimensional lumber. I have ceiling joists that are 16 inches o.c. that expand 12 feet each direction and are 2x6. There are no supporting braces coming down at all from roof . there are only roof collars. I will be attaching the beam to the ceiling joists which will rest atop of them with hurricane ties. Below the ceiling joists i will have an exposed cedar 6x6 beam.i will have a cedar 6x6 post at one end. But the question is to put a post at 10 ft to rest over a footer or safe to put one at 14 ft. Will be good that long seeing that there is no supports going to this wall from roof. I am in ohio so there is a snow load. Is there really any roof load going to it at all? Seems the ceiling joist are just holding ceiling up and acting as tension rafters for outer walls
 
Encalado83 said:
Ok it has taken me awhile to get everything ripped up and to get measurements for this. So far i have a glued triple 2x12 dimensional lumber. I have ceiling joists that are 16 inches o.c. that expand 12 feet each direction and are 2x6. There are no supporting braces coming down at all from roof . there are only roof collars. I will be attaching the beam to the ceiling joists which will rest atop of them with hurricane ties. Below the ceiling joists i will have an exposed cedar 6x6 beam.i will have a cedar 6x6 post at one end. But the question is to put a post at 10 ft to rest over a footer or safe to put one at 14 ft. Will be good that long seeing that there is no supports going to this wall from roof. I am in ohio so there is a snow load. Is there really any roof load going to it at all? Seems the ceiling joist are just holding ceiling up and acting as tension rafters for outer walls
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Glued or not 3 nails every 16 inches to laminate the beam.
Hurricane ties are extra not usually called for.

At the 14 ft mark what will the post land on, you could maybe double the joist below that.
 
When I laminate a beam on site I oppose the crowns and nail in 2 or 3 rows with the angle of penetration opposing each other.

The joists probably splice over the wall to be removed, so instead of cutting the nails attaching the CJ's to the top plate, extract them, which will lessen the chance of splitting the joist when you attach them to the beam.
 
nealtw said:
Glued or not 3 nails every 16 inches to laminate the beam.
Hurricane ties are extra not usually called for.

At the 14 ft mark what will the post land on, you could maybe double the joist below that.
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I bought head lock screws and screwed two every 12 inches. And inbetween those i scewed 2 4 inch screws stagered. Hurricane ties will make it easier to attach cj to load beam.
 
Snoonyb said:
When I laminate a beam on site I oppose the crowns and nail in 2 or 3 rows with the angle of penetration opposing each other.

The joists probably splice over the wall to be removed, so instead of cutting the nails attaching the CJ's to the top plate, extract them, which will lessen the chance of splitting the joist when you attach them to the beam.
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So i should remove all nails before screwing in hurricane ties?
 
Encalado83 said:
I bought head lock screws and screwed two every 12 inches. And inbetween those i scewed 2 4 inch screws stagered. Hurricane ties will make it easier to attach cj to load beam.
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You have the long beam across the house below, I would think landing the post there should be fine, Just solid block between that beam and sub floor.
 
I would, however I'm in concert with neal, in that they are overkill. I would just use 16D's being sure to pick up both CJ's.
 
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