I have a bathroom sink stop valve that leaks when closed. It looks like a compression valve and the compression nut is soldered to the copper. I was recommended to replace it with a sharkbite valve, and the YouTube videos make it look easy. For someone like Me with limited plumbing skills, is sharkbite a good choice? Are they reliable? Cost difference isn't an issue.
Replace leaking compression stop valve with sharkbite
- Thread starter kmwest
- Start date
Help Support House Repair Talk:
Shark bite fittings work great on copper for what you are doing. The tubing needs to be clean and smooth and cant have solder drips on the outside. If you can just cut it off below the valve the Sharkbite will slip right over and that’s it. If you cut it with a hacksaw or similar make sure the burr is sanded off.
Ok that sounds reasonable. I have a tube cutter so if I just cut below the compression nut I'll be able to put the sharkbite valve on from there? ( I'll have probably 8" of copper pipe exposed coming from the floor below).
Edit: it's a hot water line. Do I need to shut off the valve from the hot water heater as well as the house main?
Edit: it's a hot water line. Do I need to shut off the valve from the hot water heater as well as the house main?
Ok I'm practicing with a piece of 0.5" copper pipe I bought at HD along with the sharkbite. The insertion depth is 15/16th inch but I'm not able to get the valve on that far! It's on about 0.75". Am I doing something wrong? I'm practicing now so it's less of a surprise when I tien the water off...
You don't need to shut the main off, just the cold water supply to the hot water heater, and open a hot water valve below the bathroom you are working on, to relieve the pressure.
Cutting the riser just below the nut, if it is in fact soldered, may not give you a clean area of pipe, because solder runs downhill, and compression fitting are seldom if ever soldered.
A photo would be of assistance.
Cutting the riser just below the nut, if it is in fact soldered, may not give you a clean area of pipe, because solder runs downhill, and compression fitting are seldom if ever soldered.
A photo would be of assistance.
Thanks.
I'm still a sceptic about the solder because the corrosion appears more like it's the result of a leak.
The optimist in me says to shut the cold water supply too the hot water heater off, open a lower hot water valve to relieve the pressure, sand, and/or wire brush the riser below the nut to clean it, disconnect the flex from the valve and using 2 crescent wrenches separate the angle stop from the nut and attempt to turn the nut.
If my guess is correct the fault could lie in an out of round riser or a deformed compression bushing, both of which are easily remedied.
I'm still a sceptic about the solder because the corrosion appears more like it's the result of a leak.
The optimist in me says to shut the cold water supply too the hot water heater off, open a lower hot water valve to relieve the pressure, sand, and/or wire brush the riser below the nut to clean it, disconnect the flex from the valve and using 2 crescent wrenches separate the angle stop from the nut and attempt to turn the nut.
If my guess is correct the fault could lie in an out of round riser or a deformed compression bushing, both of which are easily remedied.
I have used them on copper that looks that bad or worse.
You can try and retighten as mentioned above or if you go for replacement with the shark valve just cut the copper tubing with your tubing cutter and clean up the tubing with steel wool or very fine sand paper wipe it clean and stick it together.
Of course shut off the water and relieve the pressure in the line. Stuff some towels around where water will leak out on the floor.
You can try and retighten as mentioned above or if you go for replacement with the shark valve just cut the copper tubing with your tubing cutter and clean up the tubing with steel wool or very fine sand paper wipe it clean and stick it together.
Of course shut off the water and relieve the pressure in the line. Stuff some towels around where water will leak out on the floor.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
It really depends on the point from which it is leaking. You have quite a bend in the flexible supply tube and that could cause a leak as there is a lot of pressure on the compression fitting. A longer supply tube could be the answer.
If it is leaking at the valve knob, you may be able to fix it with some new packing.
And if it is leaking where the valve meets the copper, it may need a very little bit of tightening....or a bit of teflon on the threads.
If it is leaking at the valve knob, you may be able to fix it with some new packing.
And if it is leaking where the valve meets the copper, it may need a very little bit of tightening....or a bit of teflon on the threads.
It's leaking from just behind the packing nut on the valve. When I closed the valve prior to my vacation, a few drops came per minute. I tightened the packing nut and it stopped, but this is the second time I had to do it. The valve handle is also pretty easy to turn.
WyrTwister
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Were it me , I would purchase a new brass compression valve and flex hose / pipe .
I doubt the old one is soldered .
Use some emery cloth or sand paper & clean up the pipe and put it back together . Maybe with a little pipe dope .
Or buy a copper male adapter and solder it on . Then use a valve with 1/2" female pipe thread with pipe dope .
Wyr
God bless
I doubt the old one is soldered .
Use some emery cloth or sand paper & clean up the pipe and put it back together . Maybe with a little pipe dope .
Or buy a copper male adapter and solder it on . Then use a valve with 1/2" female pipe thread with pipe dope .
Wyr
God bless
WyrTwister
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I am an old set in my ways geezer . I do not trust SharkBite , yet . And they are too expensive ( but cheaper than a plumber ) .
Wyr
God bless
Wyr
God bless
I ended up using a pipe cutter below the compression nut and putting on a new compression quarter turn valve. I ran the water for about five minutes and a couple drops formed below the compression nut. I was just out for a couple hours and left the valve closed, and a small drop was forming also under the nut. Should I just admit defeat on this and call a plumber? In progess and final Photos are attached.
Attachments
Replying since I can't edit anymore... looks like I spoke too soon. Tried to give the compression nut another 1/4" turn - which turned the nut and valve itself (hopefully not the copper...) and then ran the water for about 20 minutes. No drops formed. I'll watch it over the next day with the faucet closed and the valve open, and closed to see if any drops form prior to calling in help.
WyrTwister
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Did you use pipe dope ?
I repeat , solder a male connector & use a threaded valve . Use pipe dope on the threads .
Wyr
God bless
I repeat , solder a male connector & use a threaded valve . Use pipe dope on the threads .
Wyr
God bless
I used teflon tape on the valve threads into the compression nut if that's what you mean. I've never soldered and definitely would not be comfortable trying it out under my bathroom sink.
WyrTwister
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Then try pipe dope on the compression fitting . And tighten it a little tighter than you have been . It you can
Wyr
God bless
Wyr
God bless
