squeaky floor
- Thread starter kel789
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Help Support House Repair Talk:
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
The best way is usually to fasten loose boards from underneath. Do you have access from below?
Jaz
Ceramic Tile Pro - retired
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For anyone to help, you'll need to tell us how the subfloor system is built. Is it built like a house or is there any gypcrete involved? Got any pics of how this level is built, perhaps of another area, not necessarily under your unit?
How about some more info such as age, size, number of levels, where it's located........?
Jaz
How about some more info such as age, size, number of levels, where it's located........?
Jaz
I don't have much information from the previous owner. From the feel of it, it is not gypcrete under the flooring. It feels hollow more like maybe boxed matrix underneath.
The age is about 15 yrs old. I don't know what size and levels mean. The noise is located 6 areas in the entire apt.
The existing floor is as-is. There is no carpeting.
The age is about 15 yrs old. I don't know what size and levels mean. The noise is located 6 areas in the entire apt.
The existing floor is as-is. There is no carpeting.
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The floor covering is some form of hardwood.
In any of the specific areas where a squeak can be isolated, does rocking from one foot to the other, from board to board, cause any apparent motion between the planks?
In any of the specific areas where a squeak can be isolated, does rocking from one foot to the other, from board to board, cause any apparent motion between the planks?
I should have mentioned earlier that it is hardwood flooring. I am trying to learn all the flooring terms. At the center, a little off to the left of the above picture, a high traffic hallway, is one of the areas with squeaks. I do feel a very slight movement with the floor plank/board with one foot rocking on it and very quickly follows with squeaks.
There are a couple of methods I've used to address these, however both will leave evidence, of which you may be able to mask.
Because the material is hardwood, an air nailer's nail will often leave a dimple, I'll pre-drill the board, the thickness of the board, about 1/2", near each edge, a size smaller than an 8P finish nail, at about a 30 degree angle, opposing each other, insert the nail, setting the head of the nail just enough below the board surface to accept putty stick.
This will leave greater evidence to address. There are glue kits specifically designed for
this repair which amount the a syringe and glue and you again drill holes in the board, insert the syringe and dispense the glue. Some of these require a weight to be placed and lift for a measure time, to insure adhesion.
Because the material is hardwood, an air nailer's nail will often leave a dimple, I'll pre-drill the board, the thickness of the board, about 1/2", near each edge, a size smaller than an 8P finish nail, at about a 30 degree angle, opposing each other, insert the nail, setting the head of the nail just enough below the board surface to accept putty stick.
This will leave greater evidence to address. There are glue kits specifically designed for
this repair which amount the a syringe and glue and you again drill holes in the board, insert the syringe and dispense the glue. Some of these require a weight to be placed and lift for a measure time, to insure adhesion.
Do you have any floor grates for heating etc? if you do that is a place you can remove the grate and maybe get a peak at how the flooring is attached and to what.
I saw an old timer once take a cove chisel like a wood turner would use. He curled up a small gouge but didn’t remove the chip. He then drilled and used a ring shank finish nail and set it. added some wood glue and pushed the curl back in place and set a weight on it. after the glue dried little clean up and the repair was invisible. If I was going to try that I would get a piece of scrap flooring and try it a few times.
The drill and inject glue and nail and finish with wood filler is much more straight forward. I have found a round hole for a nail head filled stands out but if you elongate it in the direction of the grain it is less visible. Again try it first in a closet or something to learn the trade.
I saw an old timer once take a cove chisel like a wood turner would use. He curled up a small gouge but didn’t remove the chip. He then drilled and used a ring shank finish nail and set it. added some wood glue and pushed the curl back in place and set a weight on it. after the glue dried little clean up and the repair was invisible. If I was going to try that I would get a piece of scrap flooring and try it a few times.
The drill and inject glue and nail and finish with wood filler is much more straight forward. I have found a round hole for a nail head filled stands out but if you elongate it in the direction of the grain it is less visible. Again try it first in a closet or something to learn the trade.
You are welcome and if you are going to drill a hole put a nail in it also. Finish nail ring shank and at an angle. Two as mentioned at opposite angles is best.
Most important if you can document what you do and come back and post some pics. Will help the next guy out a lot. at least let us know how it turns out.
Most important if you can document what you do and come back and post some pics. Will help the next guy out a lot. at least let us know how it turns out.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Two thoughts,
1. the floor may have expanded and not enough space around the edges, nailing it down will only move the bulge.
2. the problem could be between the sub floor and the floor joists.
1. the floor may have expanded and not enough space around the edges, nailing it down will only move the bulge.
2. the problem could be between the sub floor and the floor joists.
