Discussion in 'Framing and Foundation' started by harleysilo, Jan 23, 2007.
Here are the pics....
First day's destruction
2nd days work....
Note: AFter first day, I completed the demo
So to have 2/3rd of the basement done was $11500 with the fresh air environment thing, $8000 for just the waterproofing system, 10% off if we did it immediately. For $500 we could have them "stub up" for the fresh air system so in the future when we decide we want it, it would be easier to install.....
My concerns with this which I will address with the sales man are
Nice pictures, Harley:
It looks like they did a good job for you too. If the air is to move out through the 3" PVC pipe we see stubbed up, you will have to have a high pressure/vleocity fan to move very much air out of the basement. You could give it "make-up air" by running another 3" pipe down from the roof in the far corner. If that would be an eyesore on the roof, you could pick it up from the attic space; just make sure you put a screen on each end of the pipe to prevent rodents and insects from using it. Just some random thoughts, I hope they can help.
by make up air, you mean instead of it pulling air in through the house by way of cracks and crevis's? Like a return for a/c, except say in attic? Could be easy to do actually, but that would be pulling really hot air in summer into cool basement adding to humidy issue I imagine. ....I wonder how many cfm's the fan would be?
You are dead right about it being bad to suck warm, humid Georgia air into a cool basement. To maintain reasonable conditions, you may have to run the furnace fan constantly.
I doubt if the sump pump has anything to do with the air radon/removal. I think you must have a dedicated fan for that purposes.
What do the "experts" that sell the great system have as an answer to the make-up air?
this works as claimed.
Imo, a HUMIDEX ventilator installed in the basement would do the same"drying out" and also would bring in make-up air thru infiltration.a HUMIDEX ventilator sells for only approx $400 cndn, and can be easily installed by most diyers in about 3 hours or less. it does not have to be emptied of moisture (water) as the water is discharged within the exhausted air flow from the basement.
check it out. www.humidex.ca
I have had mine for several years now, and several of our neighbors have one too, it works great,no problems.
If this pump just keeps a vacuum in the system, every time an exterior door is opened there will be a little air movement through the system, even in an airtight house. I would certainly appreciate anything they did to keep the stink of a basement drainage system down
First, I would not want the air pulled in through the cracks and crevases. Second, If your house has obvious cracks like that, its time to get out the caulking.
Third, the make-up air could be fed into your return air system on the furnace. Then it would be "conditioned" before comming into the house. A fan strong enough to change the air in the basement 6-10 times a day can have the make-up managed or it can be guessed at. If your basement is only 24' X 40' you are moving 76,800 cubic feet of air from somewhere.
the threshold is adjusted properly....
Got your attention didn't I, Harley? A space 24'x40'x8' is 7,680 cubic feet; to change that 10 times in 24 hours you have to move 76,800 cubic feet of air. That works out to 53 cubic feet per minute; does that sound a little better? The 3" pipe out means a 3" pipe in to me. If the pipe is run into your frunace retun; the air will be pumped upstairs by the furnace and then come back down to be removed. You could use sheet metal pipe if it is any cheaper but either kind should be insulated. Drawing winter air into the heated space will cause a lot of condensation.
Sorry I upset you.
I read in another post that you have a gas water heater.
I would be concerned that this thing will keep the water heater exhaust from drafting properly.
of water heater?
I don't anticipate any problem with the draft if you put the 3" make-up into the furnace return. It will just be one for one.
You said you don't have a return air duct; if the furnace is an up-draft, you could run the pipe directly into the bottom of the furnace. Your furnace fan is plenty strong to bring in more than the 53 cfm required. To do a quick test, see if the water heater draft hood will draw any smoke or a candle flame when it is heating. Same for the furnace; It might be a good idea to test when both are running.
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