Wiring a Switched Receptacle in the middle of the run - Finish my diagram

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csda634

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Hello everyone,
I need a hand figuring out how to wire a set up I designed for my pergola fan and an outlet. I have a 20amp feed coming into a switch that I want to control half of an outlet after that, the other half and the remaining circuit I want to always be live (not part of the switch).

The switched outlet is going to be used to control some plugged in string lights. The other half of the outlet will be for future use and should stay live all the time. The remaining circuit consists of a ceiling fan which has an always live circuit and is controlled on its own by a remote control.

I'm not sure if I need a 3rd red wire or what.

I made a Google Drawing that you can edit and help me out by drawing wires and connecting.

https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/11ksJpQwNNxyeCxK1FTQ2fD9JG3QmGWF1G4Z-Uj57PKE/edit?usp=sharing

Thanks!
 
You need a GFCI at the source, 12/2 and grnd to the switch, 12/3 and a grnd to the recep. and 12/2 and a grnd to the fan.

At the switch box wirenut the black from the 12/2 to the red from the 12/3 with an additional pigtail, wirenut the white from both romex's together, connect the black pigtail to the screw on the switch and connect the black from the 12/3 to the other screw on the switch.

At the recep., as it is pictured the hot connect to the right side of the recep. On that side there is a brass bridge connecting the screws together, you need to break this bridge with a side cutters.

Wirenut the red from the 12/3 to the black from the 12/2 to the ceiling fan box, with an additional pigtail, connect the pigtail to the bottom right screw on the recep., connect the black from the 12/3 to the upper right screw on the recep. Connect the whites from the 12/3 and 12/2 to the left screws on the recep.

Now, the bottom recep. is hot as is the fan, and the top recep is switched.
 
Only change I would make to the above description is I would use the red for the switch hot wire not the black.
 
Ok thank you!
I think I got it. I attached an updated version of the drawing here, based on what I interpreted you both saying. Does this look correct? I didn't show the detailed connection at the GFCI.
 

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That appears correct.

The source from the GFCI connects to the load.

When you are wirenuting, do not just stuff the conductors into the wirenut, and hope, always twist the conductors together before installing the wirenut.
 
Ok thank you!
I think I got it. I attached an updated version of the drawing here, based on what I interpreted you both saying. Does this look correct? I didn't show the detailed connection at the GFCI.
You have a red wire and a black wire feeding the outlet. The black wire is not needed and will override the red wire.


The only reason you would want that is if you break out the jumper strip and wanted half the outlet switched and half power all the time.


Least that’s what it looks like to me.
 
I would suggest in addition to what you have in the diagram that you also place a jumper for your neutral going to the regular receptacle. Do it the same way the black is jumpered from a wire nut. This way if the regular receptacle should ever fail you will still have continuity of power going to your ceiling fan.
 
I would suggest in addition to what you have in the diagram that you also place a jumper for your neutral going to the regular receptacle. Do it the same way the black is jumpered from a wire nut. This way if the regular receptacle should ever fail you will still have continuity of power going to your ceiling fan.

Useless waste of a wire nut in my opinion. The screws are a more secure connection than the wire nut. Plus in Canada wire nuts count for box fill.
 
You have a red wire and a black wire feeding the outlet. The black wire is not needed and will override the red wire.
The only reason you would want that is if you break out the jumper strip and wanted half the outlet switched and half power all the time.
Least that’s what it looks like to me.

Bud, in his original question that is exactly what he wanted. In his last diagram the red x means the jumper has been removed. He has it right.
 
Bud, in his original question that is exactly what he wanted. In his last diagram the red x means the jumper has been removed. He has it right.
I have to go back and read the first post more often. I read it once and then over the course of the week you forget what you read.


Correct you are and he looks good to me also.


I’m not a fan of removing the jumper. Whenever I do one and I have room I just do a double Jbox and two outlets one on one switched. Most houses I have lived in with the split singles ended up with a splitter in the power on one.


Thanks
 

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