Garage Tilting

[Snoonyb]

They have those 3 footish springs

If it is you're intent to use the door pictured, it is a fairly simple process to correct and stabalise the support structure until spring when you can address a formal rebuild.

 

[biddlecom]

If it is you're intent to use the door pictured, it is a fairly simple process to correct and stabalise the support structure until spring when you can address a formal rebuild.

I will be filling in the back garage door. I don't want to do that until I straighten the walls. So I plan on stabilizing it this winter then in spring I would like to take the roof down, straighten the walls, fix the foundation then put a new roof on and reinforce the walls.

 

[Snoonyb]

I will be filling in the back garage door. I don't want to do that until I straighten the walls.

So, do you intend to use one or both doors for access, or is the door pictured going to be the primary access?

 

[nealtw]

I don’t know what Neal’s plan is but if you are going shopping, there are screws and then there are screws. IMHO anything that can be nailed together can be screwed together and when it comes time to take it apart screws work a lot better. The type of screws you want are the type sold for building decks the good ones have a square or a star to drive the screw. The type I like are called guard dogs and they look like a Philips head but are not. They drive off both a square and a star at the same time with a special bit. Driving these good size screws takes a good quality drill motor. With screws you don’t need the double headed nails because you won’t need to buy a 4’ crowbar come spring. I would suggest 3” and 4” deck screws.

Bud : the deck screws we use are brittle and don't have the sheer strength of a nail, can you check that out and make sure they are equivalent.

 

[nealtw]

They have those 3 footish springs

The door and the hardware will be in the way. The torsion springs at the top are dangerous to work with and I have no experence with the stretch type on the side. Unless youu want to remove the siding off the front instead.

 

[Snoonyb]

The door and the hardware will be in the way. The torsion springs at the top are dangerous to work with and I have no experence with the stretch type on the side. Unless youu want to remove the siding off the front instead.

There is absolutely no need to remove any siding to make the door pictured functional, and the door is a standard overhead door with typical jamb mounted hardware using 2 or 4 #6 or #7 springs.

 

[nealtw]

Because we don't know how well the srtructure is holding up, I will want some extra bracing, temperary.A 2x4 from bottom plate to bottom plate on apposing wall and the same at the top.
See the video on tiying a string line from bottom plate to bottom plate.Raise the string on the nail 1 inch on both ends and hang your string level in the middle.
Raise and lower the string on the nails so you can measure how different they are.
If the two plates are level, then you can push the one side until it is plumb. Check that with a straight edge touching top and bottom plates only and a level against that.
If the plates are not level, that is another problem that will need to be dealt with a little later but then plumb is not what we will go for.
So if they are not level we will go for square intsead of plumb. We will be using the 3,4,5 method Or in this case 6,8,10.
You measure from the frist stud on the front wall along the top plate 8 ft, be carefull, then measure down from the same spot 6 ft on the stud. the measurement between the 8 ft mark and the 6 ft mark will be 10 ft when it is square.
All of this has to be understude before going ahead so questions please.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACcDtyMwvyc[/ame]

 

[Snoonyb]

Because we don't know how well the srtructure is holding up, I will want some extra bracing, temperary.A 2x4 from bottom plate to bottom plate on apposing wall and the same at the top.
See the video on tiying a string line from bottom plate to bottom plate.Raise the string on the nail 1 inch on both ends and hang your string level in the middle.
Raise and lower the string on the nails so you can measure how different they are.
If the two plates are level, then you can push the one side until it is plumb. Check that with a straight edge touching top and bottom plates only and a level against that.
If the plates are not level, that is another problem that will need to be dealt with a little later but then plumb is not what we will go for.
So if they are not level we will go for square intsead of plumb. We will be using the 3,4,5 method Or in this case 6,8,10.
You measure from the frist stud on the front wall along the top plate 8 ft, be carefull, then measure down from the same spot 6 ft on the stud. the measurement between the 8 ft mark and the 6 ft mark will be 10 ft when it is square.
All of this has to be understude before going ahead so questions please.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACcDtyMwvyc

The methods you are quoting are archaic, unnecessarily time consuming and what the OP has stated were his intent in addressing in the spring.

So lets go back to what you said, and wanted to address earlier;
"I have been wrong a few times but I havn't seen anything that isn't fixable in a day or two for a couple people with a plan and maybe 2 or 3 hundred dollars.”

Not as described.

“With all that experience you should be able to at least come up with a way to make it stable and usable for the winter on a budget.”

Asked and answered as far as the structure goes. All that remains is the door to achieve stable and usable.

“I know I can with my pittance of experience.”

Remember, stable and usable.

“The door and the hardware will be in the way.”

How then will the door be usable.

“The torsion springs at the top are dangerous to work with and I have no experence with the stretch type on the side. Unless youu want to remove the siding off the front instead.”

Addressed.

Remember, 1 man and near $100, stable and usable.

 

[nealtw]

The methods you are quoting are archaic, unnecessarily time consuming and what the OP has stated were his intent in addressing in the spring.

So lets go back to what you said, and wanted to address earlier;
"I have been wrong a few times but I havn't seen anything that isn't fixable in a day or two for a couple people with a plan and maybe 2 or 3 hundred dollars.”

Not as described.

“With all that experience you should be able to at least come up with a way to make it stable and usable for the winter on a budget.”

Asked and answered as far as the structure goes. All that remains is the door to achieve stable and usable.

“I know I can with my pittance of experience.”

Remember, stable and usable.

“The door and the hardware will be in the way.”

How then will the door be usable.

“The torsion springs at the top are dangerous to work with and I have no experence with the stretch type on the side. Unless youu want to remove the siding off the front instead.”

Addressed.

Remember, 1 man and near $100, stable and usable.

The door will go back up when the work is done
You said in your thirty five years you have never takled anything like this with success. In the spring he wants to rip the roof off and straighten and plumb the walls, I can't immagine doing that with out the roof installed and as it wqill take the same work in the spring as it would now and it will only take a few days to strighten this thing up, what's the point of leaving it.

Enough with the nonsence, ask questions or add advice.

 

[Snoonyb]

The door will go back up when the work is done"

If you are referring to the door pictured, there is no reason that it would ever have to be, taken down.

"You said in your thirty five years you have never takled anything like this with success."

You are confused because I have never said that.

"In the spring he wants to rip the roof off"

Actually the OP is contemplating removing the roof and reframing it with a steeper pitch to address the obvious effects loading has had on the existing.

"and straighten and plumb the walls"

Which is far easier to accomplish without the roof load, especially since the foundation has rolled and will need to be excavated and replaced along almost its entire length.

"I can't immagine doing that with out the roof installed and as it wqill take the same work in the spring as it would now"

Do you remember when the OP posted that he knows someone in the area who is familiar with this type of repairs and that he would approach him in the spring?

"and it will only take a few days to strighten this thing up, what's the point of leaving it."

You are dreaming if you think you can roll a displaced foundation back in place.

"Enough with the nonsence, ask questions or add advice.

The only question I have, I've asked, and am awaiting an answer, and will then advise the OP on the method to stabilize the pictured garage door for use, which is all that remains to get him through the winter.

 

[nealtw]

The only question I have, I've asked, and am awaiting an answer, and will then advise the OP on the method to stabilize the pictured garage door for use, which is all that remains to get him through the winter.

After pushing the wall back in place the wall that the door is in it will be sheeted as we do for earthquakes and it will stay in place.
Once the OP sees how easy that works he should be able to fix the whole garage in one week end.

 

[Snoonyb]

After pushing the wall back in place the wall that the door is in it will be sheeted as we do for earthquakes and it will stay in place.
Once the OP sees how easy that works he should be able to fix the whole garage in one week end.

You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink.

 

[biddlecom]

I feel this is getting over complicated. I do appreciate everyone’s help and input but I feel the simpler solution is in most cases the better one.

Before the snow falls:
I need to do simple bracing in order to keep it where it is

In Spring:
-Take the roof off
- fix the foundation
-Straighten the walls
- put a new roof on
-cover the back garage door and put a small door in
-reinforce the garage

The reason I want to do it like this is because the help I have is very very limited before spring. Once spring hits I will have knowledgeable people helping with the major parts.

The other reason is because Im in the middle of home renovations this winter. So if I can brace the garage for the winter (fast and easy) I can focus on getting home renovations done this winter then give 100% focus on the garage in the spring.

So, if someone can help me with the best route to brace my garage for winter and then maybe tips for how to pull a roof off, straighten wall, and redo foundation and reinforcement tips for spring that would be great.

Again everyone who has been helping seems very knowledgeable and I appreciate all the help. I have been learning a lot and have been enjoying the conversations and brainstorming.

 

[nealtw]

build 2 temperary walls between the house and the garage. And at the back cross brace it like Bud suggested earlier.

 

[biddlecom]

Im not 100% sure what is meant by building temp walls on both sides. Couldnt I just do the cross brace on the back door. Stake the right side (snoony suggestion) and then maybe set 2x4 up like in the drawing?

 

[nealtw]

The angled brace between the house and garage should work but attachement at the top of the garage will be key I would do that in two places.

 

[Snoonyb]

I feel this is getting over complicated. I do appreciate everyone’s help and input but I feel the simpler solution is in most cases the better one.

Before the snow falls:
I need to do simple bracing in order to keep it where it is

What I’ve suggested will arrest the motion.
What you do, is up to you.

Regarding repairing the right side of the garage overhead door to functional operation, this would be my course of action;
1. With the door in the closed position, on the driveway, mark the edge and both faces using chalk or masking tape or your choice of marker.
2. On the left side of the door, measure the distance from the door to the face of the door trim.
3. Open and raise the door to its fully open position and using a 2x to support it in this position.
4. Disconnect the spring/s from the right side of the door as well as any safety devices.
5. Remove the wood trim from the exterior right side of the door.
6. Remove the nails holding the siding and sheating to the 2x king stud from the bottom to the height of the door header.
7. Cut the nails securing the 2x king stud and the 2x door jamb to the sil.
8. Set an “L” bracket, similar to those used for securing stair treds, with
drive anchors, 1/4” back from the previously marked door edge.
9. Lever the 2x king stud and door jamb assembly over onto the “L” bracket
and secure in place with screws, keeping in mind the previously measured
reveal, in step 2.
10. Install a gusseted “L” bracket on the inside of the door jamb at its
bottom, as additional support, secured to the floor with drive anchors.
11. Install a block under the king stud and a 2x cleat from the door jamb 2x
and attached to the sil.
12. Reinstall the door spring/s and safety devices.
13. Remove the 2x supporting the door and check for proper operation.
14. Screw a 16” wide piece of plywood to the outside as a measure of
weather proofing.

What I've offered, is what I would do to stabilize the structure in place as well as allow it to be usable.

What you do, is up to you.

 

[bud16415]

Bud : the deck screws we use are brittle and don't have the sheer strength of a nail, can you check that out and make sure they are equivalent.

In general I can find information both ways in favor of nails and in favor of screws. Most of the buildings in the world were built with nails and code is all based around nails and nail spacing for the most part. Inspectors will sometimes not pass screws without a report saying they are adequate.

Basically comparing similar size nails and screws the nails are about 20% to 30% better in shear where on pullout the screws are close to twice as good. in many cases nails will bend better than screws so if a nail starts to fail it will be visible where a screw could go suddenly.

I would go with what code requires unless I wasn’t getting code involved.

For me a tight joint that won’t promote movement is better than one that with time has movement. Once there is any movement in a joint there is a gap and a gap provides leverage and increases forces. I like screws and the reason I like them is having torn down as many things as I have built I can say without a doubt screws don’t want to let go without a fight. The only real way to take a screwed joint apart is with unscrewing the screws. Nails you can always Jimmy apart.

In my case I’m always accused of using way too many screws. So if a joint I was building called for 4 nails I would most likely be putting in 6 screws.

My free standing deck with the hot tub on it I screwed all together. It is free to move with the frost and after a couple winters is still real tight when it moves back in the spring. With nails I think I would have had more problems.

There is testing that goes both ways and even more people advertising that they build with screws as if it were better I think it’s a personal choice for the most part. I know your buddy Mike Holmes is also big on screws.

 

[Snoonyb]

Im not 100% sure what is meant by building temp walls on both sides. Couldnt I just do the cross brace on the back door. Stake the right side (snoony suggestion) and then maybe set 2x4 up like in the drawing?

The brace on the left side is an alternative, however, on the right side would encroach upon your neighbors property, so you should verify that being acceptable to them, before proceeding.

Also, it does nothing to arrest the ongoing foundation displacement.

 

[biddlecom]

The foundation is going to be redone in the summer.

As for the right side brace. Would I even need one? the building isnt leaning that way and ill have the stakes on that side. Also wouldnt an x shaped brace on the back garage door be enough?