They have those 3 footish springs
If it is you're intent to use the door pictured, it is a fairly simple process to correct and stabalise the support structure until spring when you can address a formal rebuild.
They have those 3 footish springs
If it is you're intent to use the door pictured, it is a fairly simple process to correct and stabalise the support structure until spring when you can address a formal rebuild.
I will be filling in the back garage door. I don't want to do that until I straighten the walls.
I dont know what Neals plan is but if you are going shopping, there are screws and then there are screws. IMHO anything that can be nailed together can be screwed together and when it comes time to take it apart screws work a lot better. The type of screws you want are the type sold for building decks the good ones have a square or a star to drive the screw. The type I like are called guard dogs and they look like a Philips head but are not. They drive off both a square and a star at the same time with a special bit. Driving these good size screws takes a good quality drill motor. With screws you dont need the double headed nails because you wont need to buy a 4 crowbar come spring. I would suggest 3 and 4 deck screws.
They have those 3 footish springs
The door and the hardware will be in the way. The torsion springs at the top are dangerous to work with and I have no experence with the stretch type on the side. Unless youu want to remove the siding off the front instead.
Because we don't know how well the srtructure is holding up, I will want some extra bracing, temperary.A 2x4 from bottom plate to bottom plate on apposing wall and the same at the top.
See the video on tiying a string line from bottom plate to bottom plate.Raise the string on the nail 1 inch on both ends and hang your string level in the middle.
Raise and lower the string on the nails so you can measure how different they are.
If the two plates are level, then you can push the one side until it is plumb. Check that with a straight edge touching top and bottom plates only and a level against that.
If the plates are not level, that is another problem that will need to be dealt with a little later but then plumb is not what we will go for.
So if they are not level we will go for square intsead of plumb. We will be using the 3,4,5 method Or in this case 6,8,10.
You measure from the frist stud on the front wall along the top plate 8 ft, be carefull, then measure down from the same spot 6 ft on the stud. the measurement between the 8 ft mark and the 6 ft mark will be 10 ft when it is square.
All of this has to be understude before going ahead so questions please.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACcDtyMwvyc
The methods you are quoting are archaic, unnecessarily time consuming and what the OP has stated were his intent in addressing in the spring.
So lets go back to what you said, and wanted to address earlier;
"I have been wrong a few times but I havn't seen anything that isn't fixable in a day or two for a couple people with a plan and maybe 2 or 3 hundred dollars.
Not as described.
With all that experience you should be able to at least come up with a way to make it stable and usable for the winter on a budget.
Asked and answered as far as the structure goes. All that remains is the door to achieve stable and usable.
I know I can with my pittance of experience.
Remember, stable and usable.
The door and the hardware will be in the way.
How then will the door be usable.
The torsion springs at the top are dangerous to work with and I have no experence with the stretch type on the side. Unless youu want to remove the siding off the front instead.
Addressed.
Remember, 1 man and near $100, stable and usable.
The door will go back up when the work is done"
If you are referring to the door pictured, there is no reason that it would ever have to be, taken down.
"You said in your thirty five years you have never takled anything like this with success."
You are confused because I have never said that.
"In the spring he wants to rip the roof off"
Actually the OP is contemplating removing the roof and reframing it with a steeper pitch to address the obvious effects loading has had on the existing.
"and straighten and plumb the walls"
Which is far easier to accomplish without the roof load, especially since the foundation has rolled and will need to be excavated and replaced along almost its entire length.
"I can't immagine doing that with out the roof installed and as it wqill take the same work in the spring as it would now"
Do you remember when the OP posted that he knows someone in the area who is familiar with this type of repairs and that he would approach him in the spring?
"and it will only take a few days to strighten this thing up, what's the point of leaving it."
You are dreaming if you think you can roll a displaced foundation back in place.
"Enough with the nonsence, ask questions or add advice.
The only question I have, I've asked, and am awaiting an answer, and will then advise the OP on the method to stabilize the pictured garage door for use, which is all that remains to get him through the winter.
After pushing the wall back in place the wall that the door is in it will be sheeted as we do for earthquakes and it will stay in place.
Once the OP sees how easy that works he should be able to fix the whole garage in one week end.
I feel this is getting over complicated. I do appreciate everyones help and input but I feel the simpler solution is in most cases the better one.
Before the snow falls:
I need to do simple bracing in order to keep it where it is
Bud : the deck screws we use are brittle and don't have the sheer strength of a nail, can you check that out and make sure they are equivalent.
Im not 100% sure what is meant by building temp walls on both sides. Couldnt I just do the cross brace on the back door. Stake the right side (snoony suggestion) and then maybe set 2x4 up like in the drawing?
Also said:The foundation is going to be redone in the summer.
As for the right side brace. Would I even need one? the building isnt leaning that way and ill have the stakes on that side. Also wouldnt an x shaped brace on the back garage door be enough?
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