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I was doing some research on using fill for house pads. Apparently, it's always best to pour foundations on undisturbed soil. In this case, I have to bring in fill. I need over 3 feet depth of fill. I read that I should compact it every 6-10". I also read that I should use something called...

These wires are coming out of a bathroom exhaust fan. There's not enough slack in them to pull them over to a stud and put them in a junction box.

I've heard metal roofs described as "lifetime." Is this true? In that case, why not put a metal roof on everything?

Every time I've had to take one of these off, I end up having to cut it with a hacksaw (and thus, have to replace it). Half the time, I end up cuf cutting through the valve stem and have to replace that, too. I even found a video on YouTube that said that's how it's done most of the time.

I want to make a gate wide enough for a vehicle to drive through. So at least 6'. I want it to have 2 doors. At Home Depot/Lowe's, the narrowest gates they have are 36", but they are see-through. Aside from that, they only have gates that are too wide for my purposes.

This is a bathtub drain on a trailer in a very hard to reach location. It's leaking from where the arrow is. What's going wrong? Is it the piece above the arrow? Below the arrow? Has the glue washed away after years of use? Is this something I can fix with just a little putty that would make it...

There was 3 different rooms with buckling laminate. I took off the trim and there were some obvious spots where there was not enough room to allow for expansion. But even after cutting these, it still buckles.

It's not attaching in this one spot. Nails go right through it, and I can't clamp it from that angle to use any type of adhesive.

I guess the wood didn't go all the way to the wall. Noticed a hole in the corner today, so ripped the carpet back. I need to put some wood to the edge, then put new Tackstrips, but I don't know how to patch a floor on the edge right against a wall like this.

The only ones I could find at the store were threaded. Will they work? The hole measures 7/8" in diameter.

I have a house built in the 1950s. None of the original outlets in the house are grounded. Can I ground them by replacing them with GFCI's? Maybe "ground" isn't the right word, but can I protect from power surges? https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ideas/replacing-two-prong-receptacles This site...

Contractor ran off. Didn't cut it, and I just noticed that the curb wasn't rebuilt.

The old plywood was removed because it was uneven. Possibly something to do with the fact that this house is on brick columns that are about 3' tall. It does not have a concrete slab foundation. What needs to be under the plywood (either masonry or bricks) to make it flat and where does it go...

On these French doors, all of the panes need to be fixed, and 1 needs to be replaced. What's the process for cleaning? And for replacing the 1 pane?

This originally had 3 posts holding it up. 2 of them had gradually bent. On 5/28/18, two new posts were added, and one of the bent posts was replaced. The remaining post that was bent has gotten worse. What is the best thing to do?

First, can I even put Romex in conduit, or does it need to be replaced with THHN so it doesn't overheat? Second, if I chose to put them in Liquid Tight, how would that work because there are multiple Romex cables per knockout in the panel.

This is where the old water heater was. New one will go in same location. Should I drill a hole in the floor, or put it in the wall? This is a patio room that is not air conditioned.

I've always seen the GD go straight (slightly sloped) to the other side and then to a single trap. This has 2 separate traps.

I'm trying to drill a 1.5" hole for a faucet on a Reverse Osmosis system. Do they make 1.5" bits that will go through Stainless Steel?

The OD reads 1/2". But neither 1/2" or 3/8" Sharkbite will fit.