2 post auto lift - 220v wiring

Discussion in 'Electrical and Wiring' started by Scot Clark, Jan 7, 2008.

  1. Jan 7, 2008 #1

    Scot Clark

    Scot Clark

    Scot Clark

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    I have a 2 post auto lift. On the motor plate it says: 3hp 220v 20 amps.
    There is also a safety shut off switch on top if the car gets raise too high.
    The wires for the safety switch run down the column to where the motor is.
    The motor has a switch housing with 3 wires coming out the housing. Green, Red, and Tan.
    On the face of the housing is the push button. It is connected to the switch inside with 2 blue wires.

    To connect the safety switch, I'm told to spice into any one of the blue wires from
    the push button going into the main switch.

    Questions:
    Should I use a 20amp 220v breaker or go up to a 30 amp.
    If I go to a 30 amp. Should I go up to 10 AWG, or can I still use the 12 AWG.

    The tan motor wire used as ground seems odd. I'm used to seeing green for ground.
    The green and red wires are on one side of the switch. The other side has two wires going to the motor.
    Do I just connect the tan to bare wire/ground buss, and the red and green just go to black
    and white (re-marked black) to the breaker?

    Thanks.
     
  2. Jan 8, 2008 #2

    Scot Clark

    Scot Clark

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    a little more info...

    inside the switch box housing, the 2 wires from the motor
    go to the top of the switch. One goes to 4 T2, and the other goes
    to 6 T3.

    The wires I have to connect to come off the
    top of the switch as 3 L3 and 5 L3. I'm thinking these
    get connected to the black and white (remarked black)
    to the 220v breaker.

    The tan wire I have to connect to comes off the motor housing.
    This I figure has to be the ground

    2 blue wires coming from the bottom of the switch goes
    to the push button. I think I have to spice the safety cut
    off switch into one of these wires. The cut off switch is on
    top of the lift and gets actuated if a car is raised to high.

    Will go to 10awg and 30 amp breaker.

    Hope some one can tell me if my thinking is correct or not.
    Thanks in advance.
     
  3. Jan 8, 2008 #3

    ToolGuy

    ToolGuy

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    Hi Scot,

    I think the best thing to do is contact the manufacturer. They know their product better than anyone here.
     
  4. Jan 9, 2008 #4

    speedy petey

    speedy petey

    speedy petey

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    NO. The best thing to do is have a licensed and qualified electrician do this job.



    Is this in your home or a commercial setting? If commercial then there is a very real likelihood that it is illegal for you to be doing ANY electrical work at all there.

    Sorry if this sounds harsh but it is the harsh truth.
     
  5. Jan 9, 2008 #5

    ToolGuy

    ToolGuy

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    nevermind..
     
  6. Jan 9, 2008 #6

    Scot Clark

    Scot Clark

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    Hi:

    It's single phase. At home useage.
     
  7. Jan 10, 2008 #7

    ToolGuy

    ToolGuy

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    imho, 10 awg and 30 amp breaker is the way to go. Since you're not getting any advice, other than hire an electrician, I thought I should throw in my diy advice. My reasoning is that a 20 amp motor will probably pull a little more amperage when it first kicks in. I'm assuming it's a dedicate circuit. It should be.

    In other words... Yeah, I'd do what you're doing. ;)
     
  8. Jan 10, 2008 #8

    Scot Clark

    Scot Clark

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    Thanks ToolGuy.
     
  9. Jan 10, 2008 #9

    kok328

    kok328

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    Can you post a pic of the nameplate?
    What guage wires do you have coming out of the motor and what guage wires are coming from the safety switch?
    I suspect the two blue wires are a motor overload reset button. The green wire is typically a ground but, the are usually bolted to the motor housing, not ran internally. I also find it hard to believe that if this is an entire setup from the same mfg. that they would have you splicing wires. You should have been provided connectors for that purpose.
     
  10. Jan 11, 2008 #10

    Scot Clark

    Scot Clark

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    Hi :

    Thanks for all the suggestions.
    I got a responce from the mfg.
    They said use the tan conncted to motor body as gruond.
    Run the power to each terminal , one to L2 and one to L3.
     
  11. Jan 12, 2008 #11

    ToolGuy

    ToolGuy

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    Glad we could provide a lift. Haa haaa :D

    Sorry, couldn't resist. :)
     
  12. Jan 12, 2008 #12

    travelover

    travelover

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    Glad we didn't let you down. :)
     
  13. Jan 19, 2008 #13

    trader12

    trader12

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    If u'r not suggest,.,.,.
    I would like to suggest you to have a look at Harding steels lifts; I had a quite good time using their lifts. You can look out for Garage Parking Lift As you have mentioned your requirement is for a small garage. ItÂ’s very important for you to take and consider before buying a lift that it should be in the dimensions suited to your garage.
    Hope this helps!!
     
  14. Jan 19, 2008 #14

    trader12

    trader12

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    Hope this site will help you,.,.
     
  15. Jan 19, 2008 #15

    ToolGuy

    ToolGuy

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    He already has the lift, just needed info on how to wire it properly. But I took a look at that site and that's pretty impressive. I always thought of car lifts as just for mechanics. Almost makes me want to start a car colleciotn! :D
     

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