Garage sub panel

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Eddie_T said:
If there is no need for 240v the feed it could be converted to 120v at the main panel to solve the wiring problem.
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If you replace the 60A, 240V breaker with the appropriate single breaker, for the feeds conductor size, which appears to be #12, so a 20A should suffice, however, check to see how the romex is labeled.

There is a whole procedure involving neutrals and alternative grnding for sub-panels, designed to ensure safety.
 
Besides the garage there’s two outbuildings that use the same 60 amp double breaker. I just checked their panels and they have 120 volts
 
There are two outbuildings besides garage on same breaker. Is this something that is done in main box or outside
 
gpglinka said:
Besides the garage there’s two outbuildings that use the same 60 amp double breaker. I just checked their panels and they have 120 volts.
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That means that there is a "J" box somewhere that devided the 3, unless they are chain fed.
 
Once again, "Could you post a photo of the area from the ground to above the weatherhead?"
 
Thank you, a much clearer picture of you system.

So, we need to scrap the suggestion from some of the previous post, IE, my supposition of a "J" box, and swapping the 60A, 240V breaker for a single 20A.

Because the breaker is, primarily, to protect the conductors, leave the 60A in place in you main distribution panel, and install a 60A panel in the garage with 4, #6 copper feeds, instead of what appears too be 3, #12.

Similar to these; Siemens - 60 amp - Breaker Boxes - Electrical Panels & Protective Devices - The Home Depot

We can instruct you, in the process.
 
Sounds good. I have wire and light fixture needs replacing. I’ll pickup a box. Thank you so much for the help and patience.
 
For further clarification, could you post photos of where the 3 runs land on the buildings and also where they enter/penetrate the walls.

The reason I ask is that the 3 drops are of a larger gauge conductor then what appears to be the 12-3 for the garage, and if there is a box on the inside, how the drops conductors are connected, should be enlightening, because the bare braided conductor is a mechanical ground, so if the bare copper in the 12-3 is connected to the neutral of the drop, that explains a lot.
 
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I’m going to jump in and make a suggestion. The information you are getting is solid but in reading the thread I’m somewhat alarmed that the OPs expertise is lacking in some of the basic knowledge and skills to solve this problem at home alone with just our help.



I’m going to strongly suggest that you get a professional electrician involved and have them do the job or work with you in doing the job. The end goal should both be a working solution and something that is 100% to code. What you are trying to do is called a multi-wire branch circuit I believe. What you have is a 240v sub-panel for something like a 240v pump.



Trust me a pro should come in and run it all down and do it to spec.
 
In the photo on post #29, there are actually 3 drops, which appear to have been professionally accomplished, so I'm curious to see the rest of those runs, as well as how they are terminated, in all 3 locations, and if the contractor went further than a termination box, inside each, as I suspect.
 
Snoonyb said:
In the photo on post #29, there are actually 3 drops, which appear to have been professionally accomplished, so I'm curious to see the rest of those runs, as well as how they are terminated, in all 3 locations, and if the contractor went further than a termination box, inside each, as I suspect.
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Yes in those photos it looks like only two conductors are run to each of the three locations along with the bare ground that is used to suspend the run.



The OP is attempting to manufacture two 120v circuits out of this for lighting and outlet power. This I believe is not going to be to code. He has verified after a lot of coaching that he indeed has 240v between the two hot conductors at the remote locations and he did some risky experiments applying the 240v to some lighting requiring 120v stating it got extra bright and fans hummed but didn’t run. If it was working before he was using that ground as the return leg and that isn’t to code or safe although it will work.



I just feel there may be a whole bunch of other issues that no amount of remote questions will revile. Like it sounds like there is a 60a 240v breaker protecting all 3 of these runs and each run then has the potential of drawing the full 60a before shutting down.



We have to exercise some limits with those that need additional understanding of basics to keep them safe if we see they may be in over their heads. We can keep helping but the OP also needs to know the danger of not understanding what he doesn't know.
 
In post #27 it appears the the neutral is tied to the braided ground, on both the service drop and the sub feeds, which could be hazardous to casual labor.

In retrospect, he would be better served to just do an upgrade by separating the neutral from the ground and add another conductor to each of the drops.

I wonder if the neutral is separated in the main distribution panel?
 
Snoonyb said:
In post #27 it appears the the neutral is tied to the braided ground, on both the service drop and the sub feeds, which could be hazardous to casual labor.

In retrospect, he would be better served to just do an upgrade by separating the neutral from the ground and add another conductor to each of the drops.

I wonder if the neutral is separated in the main distribution panel?
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Code requires them to be bonded in main panel but never in subs. I have never seen combined branch circuits like that. I wonder why 240v was distributed to three locations w/o a neutral? If it was, didn't the OP imply that the other two were 120v? Something doesn't add up, shouldn't they all be the same as wired?
 
There's gotta be some anomaly going on, because I've never seen a neutral bonded to the mechanical ground, at the main service weather head, as well as just two conductors from the providers pole.
 
I think most service drops are just two hots and a ground. Mine is to a yard transformer so just one hot with a concentric ground. My neutral is then derived from the transformer center tap which is also grounded.
 
I'm familiar with CA, ARIZ, ND & MINN. and those are 3 conductor and a ground.
 
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