Help with Outside Garage Lighting

[Snoonyb]

What question has he had so far that hasn't been answered with what he has?

A non contact proximity device only indicates the presence of voltage, not it's level or source.

If he has to look for a mystery wire, a tone and probe would be a better tool.

Or a VOM.

 

[nealtw]

A non contact proximity device only indicates the presence of voltage, not it's level or source.

That you might need if the power at the switch is at the light but still won't light the light, no need yet.



Or a VOM.

You would be looking for wires in walls, how would you use that?

 

[Afrowookie]

If I get to that point, tracing wires. What's the best tool for that job, and can I get one locally? I am in Ontario.

 

[nealtw]

Your not there yet. And will likely find what we need with out spending any money.

Just one other thought, by code the lights should be on a different circuit that outlets but check you outlets all over the house and see that they work. If you find some that don't double check for GFCI outlets that might be tripped.

 

[Afrowookie]

Hmm...good thing you said that, and I probably should've mentioned this before. When I first turn off the breaker to troubleshoot my light switch, originally I thought it was just for the Parking light, entrance light and porch light. But when my wife came and tried to turn on other lights, we found out that breaker also controlled a receptacle behind a wall of those 3 switches, the kitchen lights and the bathroom lights and receptacle.

How much does this factor into my troubleshooting?

 

[nealtw]

That looks more like a water line, the next one looks like gas and the one over by the gate would be electrical.

 

[nealtw]

Hmm...good thing you said that, and I probably should've mentioned this before. When I first turn off the breaker to troubleshoot my light switch, originally I thought it was just for the Parking light, entrance light and porch light. But when my wife came and tried to turn on other lights, we found out that breaker also controlled a receptacle behind a wall of those 3 switches, the kitchen lights and the bathroom lights and receptacle.

How much does this factor into my troubleshooting?

Check outlets for a gfci that is tripped. Out side. kitchen, bathroom.

Nothing should make a difference but strange things do happen.

Do you have outlets under the eaves for xmas lights? on the house or garage.

 

[Afrowookie]

There is no water going to the garage. So why would that be a water line? That conduit from the house looks exactly like another one going into the garage.

 

[nealtw]

There is no water going to the garage. So why would that be a water line? That conduit from the house looks exactly like another one going into the garage.

maybe get a closer picture of the fitting going thru the wall.

 

[Afrowookie]

Tried to edit my post 65 but it didn't take.

In the bathroom there is a left switch (fan) middle receptacle(GFCI), right swicth(lights). Occasionally when turning off the fan the receptacle would trip and then the fan and recept. would not work until GCFI rec is reset. Lights would still work. It doesn't happen often. As mentioned earlier they are on he same breaker.

 

[Afrowookie]

Ok will do. I will take closer pics of the conduits of the house and garage tomorrow.

 

[nealtw]

So I think I have it figured out.

When the house was built there was a conduit going to the garage carrying a tree wire to service a inside garage light and maybe an out let with the red wire.
The black wire controlled the lights outside the garage from the switch.

When the breaker box was installed in the garage having two sources of power would be against code so the red wire was killed and all inside lights and outlets are taken from the new breaker box.

So the other end of the red should be found dead in one of the lights or the interior light box or the switch box for those interior lights. or in one of the outlet boxes in the garage.
So a connection for the outside lights could be in any of those places.

 

[Afrowookie]

That makes sense. So I guess tomorrow or on the weekend I have some work to do searching for this elusive red wire. Will let you know of updates.

Thanks.

 

[nealtw]

That makes sense. So I guess tomorrow or on the weekend I have some work to do searching for this elusive red wire. Will let you know of updates.

Thanks.

The two conduits with big lumps on them where they go into the building are electrical the smaller ones might be ground wires that, well, go in the ground.

 

[Snoonyb]

Those "big lumps" are called LB's;http://catalog.pecoelect.com/viewit...s-conduit-bodies-junction-boxes/-lb-fittings?

And the OP can remove the cover to see the conductors contained within.

 

[JoeD]

When the breaker box was installed in the garage having two sources of power would be against code

Is the garage detached? That would account for the switch not running to the garage. If the garage is not detached then the double feed rule does not apply.

 

[nealtw]

Is the garage detached? That would account for the switch not running to the garage. If the garage is not detached then the double feed rule does not apply.

Don't usually see underground to an attached:agree:

 

[Snoonyb]

Is the garage detached? That would account for the switch not running to the garage. If the garage is not detached then the double feed rule does not apply.

See post #58.

 

[nealtw]

Is the garage detached? That would account for the switch not running to the garage. If the garage is not detached then the double feed rule does not apply.

I want to figure out what is happening and then get into that.
The lights would be against code and maybe just disconnected before the move to make the house compliant.

 

[markfothebeast]

1. Turn off breaker to Light Circuit. Or suspect breaker circuit(s).

2. Confirm there is no power to switch terminals. Disconnect switch. Confirm there is no power to suspect pair of wires to exterior lights.

3. Remove exterior light(s) to access wires. Confirm there is no power to actual wiring at the light(s).

4. With suspect wiring disconnected between both the switch and light(s) with no live current, wrap the black and white wires together at the light fixture. Set your DMM to continuity or OHMs. Probe the suspect black and white wires in the switch box. If you have a reading of .06 to .08 ohms you have continuity (or you hear an audible beep). If there's a red wire in the light fixture, also test this method with the red wire.