Replacing exterior doors with rotted sills

Discussion in 'Windows and Doors' started by zannej, Jun 6, 2017.

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  1. Jun 13, 2017 #21

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    If the plywood is 1/2" thick as a spacer there will be room to run the wire between the 2x6 hopefully the wire is in the center of the top plates of the wall.
     
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  2. Jun 13, 2017 #22

    zannej

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    I just checked and the wire runs through the 2x4s sideways rather than in to the attic-- and it passes through the light fixture to the adjacent wall to the useless bathroom.
    [​IMG]

    It goes up to the left and through the studs all the way to the left wall to the nearby circuit box.
    [​IMG]

    The other wire that goes up from the blue box then diverts to the right and passes through the studs and around the corner and down to the light switch.
    [​IMG]

    I think I've shown the wider shot with the light switch before. Now I need to figure out which breaker it is attached to and shut it off so I can shut it off and disconnect it. I wonder if I could cut the vertical pieces above the header while they are in place and make them short enough to jam a new header in (after removing that light and moving the wires out of the way). I definitely want to caulk the seams on the exterior wall- looks like there are some gaps on those boards.

    Not sure when my friend will be able to help-- his grandmother just got rushed to the hospital last night with heart failure and they transferred her to a crappy hospital instead of to a good one (not sure if the family had a choice).

    Edit: I can see that the black wires come out the blue box at the top and exit through the wood above the blue box-- so I could probably flip the box upsidedown so it is well out of the way of the header.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2017
  3. Jun 13, 2017 #23

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    To find the breaker. You need some cheap fixture, if nothing else pick up one of those plastic things that look like the old white porcelain ones.

    Turn off all the breakers, hook up the fixture and turn on breakers one at a time until that light comes on and you have the breaker in question.

    If the wires go sideways, the header gets easier, just 2 2x6s nailed together no plywood and a block on each side to hold it up.. Just pre dril the blocks for the wire to go thru.
     
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  4. Jun 13, 2017 #24

    nealtw

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    zannej, moving on to the floor. This is going to be a bit of a bear to figure out, with out crawling around under there and poking at things.

    Can you figure the direction of the floor joists in that area. I would think they go side ways toward the bathroom?
     
  5. Jun 13, 2017 #25

    zannej

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    I could probably just flip all of the breakers off to be safe and figure out which one it's on later. I do have a little tool that is supposed to detect electricity to tell me if a wire is live, but it also lights up when it is near metal so I don't think it works all that well.
    I really do need to organize the breaker box and make sure everything is more clearly marked. Some of the magnets with the identifiers have slipped and I'm not sure which breakers they are supposed to indicate.
    So, the 2x6s would be put together side by side and I would put it on top of extension blocks to raise it up a bit more?

    I think I'll find a cardboard box and make a template where I can figure out where things would go when level so I can figure out just how much to cut and how much to buff up. And I have a spare piece of 2x4 just lying on the floor in the area for some reason.
    I'll have to check the workshop for 2x6s. If we don't have any I can hit the local hardware store later.
     
  6. Jun 13, 2017 #26

    nealtw

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    Your indicator might be good enough to tell if power is on and then when it is turned off.

    The old header goes right over the studs on both sides. the blocks would be a tight fit from old to new header.
     
  7. Jun 13, 2017 #27

    nealtw

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    The sub floor we can see by the back door looks to be plywood.
    In this picture we can see boards. these board could be any thickness from 3/4 inch to 1 1/2 inch, the plywood could be any thickness from 1/4" to 3/4" and there could be more layers in between.

    Is there any holes thru the floor where you might get a look at what you have?

    tumblr_omzq68hmHU1qkwd9ao3_1280.jpg
     
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  8. Jun 14, 2017 #28

    zannej

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    Not currently. And there is no guarantee that what the floor looks like in one spot will match in another. This was a mickey mouse job.

    The back door seemed to show two layers of plywood under the threshold but it's difficult to tell the thickness.

    I convinced my mother to let me tear out the west wall of the bathroom so I might be able to see through there, but am not certain. I don't want to mess with the floor until I'm steadier on both feet and know that I will have help-- and I don't know how my friend's grandmother is doing. She apparently had another heart attack at the hospital and had to get a heart catheter test. She's basically a mother to him since his birth mother was a meth addict and wasn't around. If she doesn't pull through he's going to be devastated and in no shape to help out. I think my friend actually has my prybar and some of my tools.

    Edit: Maybe if I can clear enough space to get at the drain for the lav that broke, I might be able to remove it and get a look. But I'm not going to be able to climb under there anytime soon.
     
  9. Jun 14, 2017 #29

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Before you crawl under there, we need a plan for what else you can look at an maybe poke at and take pictures.

    If you have a hole saw you might cut a hole near by and the the plug would show what you have.
     
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  10. Jun 17, 2017 #30

    zannej

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    I forgot to comment on joist direction. Joists seem to run east to west. Load bearing walls are north to south. None of the walls I'm planning to cut are load-bearing fortunately.

    My friend's grandmother is doing better. My old cardiologist (whom I really miss) treated her when she was transferred. He basically found a polite way to say the doctors back here are idiots and got her sorted out. So, my friend came out to give my Mom the monthly loan payment (zero interest and so he wouldn't have to go to those stupid payday loan places that are guilty of usery). I showed him the header and talked to him about it. He said he can help me with it when things settle down and I get feeling better. Still got a stomach bug that isn't responding to medicine. If it doesn't clear up by Monday I'm calling the doctor.

    But at least he knows what needs to be done and knows how to do it.

    I can't remember if we decided on something-- Do I just need to make sure that the new header is at 82" and level? Or should I bump it up higher than that?

    Also, I need to figure out how high the built-in threshold is for the prehung door. Right now I can walk on level ground, but the ground to the workshop is sloped and bumpy so I am going to wait until my ankle is a little more recovered before going down there.

    Once this stomach bug passes I will see if I can find one of the hole cutting attachments. I should have one in the workshop somewhere. I remember my dad drilled a hole and the wood got stuck in the cutter and wouldn't come out. LOL. It might still be down there with the wood in it.

    Cutting a hole would probably help me see if there is a joist underneath the little wall part that I plan to leave intact when I do the renovation.
     
  11. Jun 19, 2017 #31

    nealtw

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    I would put the new header right up to the top of the wall just under the top plates witha block on each side down to the old header.
    That can be done before the door is re moved. Then anything we need can be worked out with out a problem.

    I like the east west answer but do we expect the floor joist to run in the same direction as the wall with the door?:p

    It is going to be hard to figure out exactly what has to be done before digging in there.

    Cutting a hole where to the tub will go later might help.

    Does this house have and exterior foundation or it is sitting on piers.

    high header.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2017
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  12. Jun 21, 2017 #32

    zannej

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    Oops. Forgot to clarify that the wall with the exterior door runs north to south. I'm currently working on an improved sketch of the layout.

    Ok, so I think if we put the header at the top, I won't have to move the electrical box for the back light. That would work better.

    And I just got totally distracted because one of my cats is chasing his own tail and making a lot of noise in the process... WTF? Cats. LOL.
     
  13. Jun 21, 2017 #33

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    That short wall beside the door. The bottom plate of that wall is sitting on the sub floor. That 2x4 is 1 1/2 inches thick, that might help you figure out how much wood is on top of the sub floor.
     
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  14. Jun 21, 2017 #34

    zannej

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    Good idea. I'll have to take a look at it-- and I'll have to see if that wall actually rests on a joist. Some of my walls don't even have bottom plates or any floor under them in spots.
     
  15. Jun 21, 2017 #35

    nealtw

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    most times those walls don't need to line up with a floor joist. With enough layers of flooring the bottom plate could be below surface.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2017
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  16. Jun 22, 2017 #36

    zannej

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    I've since sealed it up, but I discovered a few spots inside walls where there was no floor at all underneath parts of the wall. Just gaping holes and a flashlight let me see the dirt on the ground below. LOL.
    I'm going to wait til this tropical storm blows through and tackle that wall (once i get my prybar back) to get it out of the way so I can get a better look at the floor.

    Flooring forum people recommended having two layers of subfloor to reduce problems from movement.
     
  17. Jun 22, 2017 #37

    nealtw

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    Yeah they say that.
    A friend of mine had a squeaky floor and I said we could just build a pony wall in the crawlspace but the flooring salesman convinced her that all she needs is another layer of plywood and then lino.

    The floor still squeaked so they came back and added more staples leveling compound and more lino. It still squeaks and they say they can't be responsible for the structure of the house.

    Looking under your house we see possible problems with cut joists. More plywood would never fix it. But that might have been what happened.
    Where you could see thru might have been where a repair was done by someone with out the experience to do it right.

    You need to train your cat to carry your phone and take a movie down there of the floor from below.:thbup:
     
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  18. Jul 16, 2017 #38

    mabloodhound

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    I'm late to the party, but yes, you definitely want flashing under that door. A pan is good. I use lead sheet (roll) and make my own flashing. But something is needed to keep the water out and prevent rot.
     
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  19. Jul 17, 2017 #39

    zannej

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    Thanks! I still need to buy the wood for the header and get that put in. I'm very bad about procrastinating.
     
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  20. Sep 3, 2017 #40

    zannej

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    I read on some blog somewhere that someone used a 4x4 post instead of sandwiching boards together for a header. Do you think that would work? Or should I have a 4x6 like this? http://www.homedepot.com/p/WeatherS...ft-2-Pressure-Treated-Timber-260430/100062638

    (I may consider getting one or two of those to strengthen the joists-- I think they ran the plywood parallel to the joists rather than perpendicular-- but since I'm going to gut it, I might do it differently, although I'm not having much luck finding the tongue and groove plywood that is actually available in my area).
     

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