Converting the attic into a living space

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Where I live a floor is made out of 2x10s period. There are span tables that will tell you how much weight a 2x6 floor will carry but carrying the load and not sagging are 2 different things. And then you don't know how much weight is already being carried. It was designed to carry the the drywall ceiling below, the insulation and right now we can add the weight of the floor sheeting and there is some weight from the roof carried thru the knee walls, intended or not.
If you use this for living space the drywall wants to be 5/8 on the ceiling, if you want to use it for storage with heat you could likely cheat that but then you should have a fire rated door between that and the living space.
What about the stairs or do you have level access from the house?
 
What about the stairs or do you have level access from the house?[/QUOTE]

Yes i do,, i have an opening big enough to build a stair case, right now using a step ladder..
 
Its W3'X L7', was build by a contractor who renovated my master bathroom right under the attic, i asked to remove the drop down latter that for some stupid reason was located inside my master bathroom.
 
7 ft doesn't work. With a min tread length of 10 inches = 8.5 treads 9 risers mix height @ 8 inches =72 inches if you can count the 9th one. So the head room is either 63 or 72 depending on where you measure it. Min. head room is 80 inches.
 
I'm not sure if i follow you on this one. Please take it easy with me, I'm only a network engineer..

7 ft doesn't work. With a min tread length of 10 inches = 8.5 treads 9 risers mix height @ 8 inches =72 inches if you can count the 9th one. So the head room is either 63 or 72 depending on where you measure it. Min. head room is 80 inches.
 
Fair enough I will try again.
If you have an eight foot ceiling down stairs and we add to that the thickness of the ceiling including drywall and plywood. We get a total height of about 103.5" so we divide that by 8 the max height for each riser and we get, we get 12.93. We need to have the stairs to all be equal so now we divide the 103.5 by 13 and we get the risers for the stairs. 7.93 inches which is just a hair under 8"
With 13 risers you have 12 treads X 10 min = 120" that is the full run. Now you figure how many of these fit in the 7 ft opening that you have.
This will help.
http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/stairs1b.htm
 
aha, i see this is the building code requirement.

In reality i have no need for headroom, the way the entrance/opening to attic is constructed..


Fair enough I will try again.
If you have an eight foot ceiling down stairs and we add to that the thickness of the ceiling including drywall and plywood. We get a total height of about 103.5" so we divide that by 8 the max height for each riser and we get, we get 12.93. We need to have the stairs to all be equal so now we divide the 103.5 by 13 and we get the risers for the stairs. 7.93 inches which is just a hair under 8"
With 13 risers you have 12 treads X 10 min = 120" that is the full run. Now you figure how many of these fit in the 7 ft opening that you have.
This will help.
http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/stairs1b.htm
 
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qw9oX-kZ_9k[/ame]
So, it opens to a room with a higher ceiling
 
Keep in mind that the codes in NJ may not be the same as BC. That said, as I read this, there are quite a few strikes against the addition. Only a local engineer who can check on-site can be the final judge.:2cents::2cents:
 
Keep in mind that the codes in NJ may not be the same as BC. That said, as I read this, there are quite a few strikes against the addition. Only a local engineer who can check on-site can be the final judge.:2cents::2cents:

Codes may be a little different but key word is little, I think have an engineer laughing at this would not be worth the money, but I have been surprised by engineers more than once.
 
lol

No it was a small closet that we reserved to be the entrance to the attic..

I don't know if this picture is worth a 1000 words, but check it out anyway.

It kind of reminds me of Saddam Hussein hiding hole, I'm trying to remember why he got hanged, I hope it wasn't for a code violation..:rofl:









https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qw9oX-kZ_9k
So, it opens to a room with a higher ceiling

20160121_223643.jpg
 
That is true, i will see if i can have an eng. take a look, and maybe laugh at my stupid idea..



Keep in mind that the codes in NJ may not be the same as BC. That said, as I read this, there are quite a few strikes against the addition. Only a local engineer who can check on-site can be the final judge.:2cents::2cents:
 
lol

No it was a small closet that we reserved to be the entrance to the attic..

I don't know if this picture is worth a 1000 words, but check it out anyway.

It kind of reminds me of Saddam Hussein hiding hole, I'm trying to remember why he got hanged, I hope it wasn't for a code violation..:rofl:

No it is not I want to see the other end of the seven ft. opening. What above your head when you took that photo? That is the head room I am taking about
By the time you have climbed up to the seven ft mark you are standing 24" above the floor or 72" below the ceiling.
 
well the first pic is what above my head, which is the 8ft wall and the attic, the other 2 are taken from the top down..

20160121_230748.jpg

20160121_230848.jpg

20160121_230903.jpg
 
well the first pic is what above my head, which is the 8ft wall and the attic, the other 2 are taken from the top down..

So, if you stand in that door way and run a tape measure to the other wall, you have 7 ft, extend that tape out to 10 ft and see that your stairs interfere with that other door. Now come back to the door frame and measure up from the floor measure up 24 inches and mark that with a pencil. Now measure from that mark to the ceiling in the hall way. That is what you bump your head on when you are standing on the third step.
 
The rule of thumb I often use is the rise plus the run should always be 18”. Neal is talking about a comfortable climb of 8” of rise and 10” of run 7 & 11 is even an easier climb. I don’t know code inside and out or what pertains in your neck of the woods but I believe around here attic access can be steeper and they would allow a 9” rise and 9” run without any problem as long as it is attic access. I mean they allow pull down steps that are 11” rise 7” run more like a step ladder.

Assuming you want the space as a man cave some light’s , heat etc. I wouldn’t sell it to the engineer or anyone that it was living space only that I wanted a conditioned attic space for storage that you can walk around in. it is not unreasonable to want your stuff stored where it won’t be cooked in the summer and froze in the winter. If you sell it as a bedroom or anything other than a storage place they are going to ask for egress plans for fire and the whole 9 yards.

If that flies you will still need to figure out venting for the room and how to insulate it. Keep in mind the space will get smaller as you build the sloped ceiling out for insulation and maybe the floor up if the 2x6 are not enough. Right now you have collar ties on every other rafter. They may let you move them up if you put one on every rafter. You need at least 6’6” not by code just by common sense to walk around up there.

If you get that far then you can store a 42” tv up there and a lazy boy recliner with a dorm fridge beside it for an end table. When you sell the house someday you advertise it as a finished attic great place to keep Xmas stuff.
 
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