Needing advice on Bathroom door maze

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MrsStark

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Hi Everyone!!

I’m needing advice on what my options are for a Bathroom with a SUPER inconveniently placed, but essential, door.

The Bathroom has the problem-door, the North door, that leads into the Master Bedroom, and another, the East door, that leads into the hall.

Seeing as the door in question leads to our personal space, I thought a pocket-door would be absolutely perfect - Since 9/10 times this door is always open anyways. But now that I really look at the space, I’m not so sure this brilliant solution is feasible, at all.

On one side we have electrical switches and a single outlet, to which there is NO interfering switches/outlets on the Bedroom side of the wall. But then on the other wall we have an HVAC register, which has a complementary register on the Bedroom side of the wall. - So I guess my question is, which is the lesser of the two evils?

BUT, then I thought about possibly doing a “sliding barn door” here, with the track and door on the Bathroom side of the wall… But again the HVAC register seems it may be an issue.


Other than completely ripping this migraine off it’s hinges, can anyone please suggest another idea, or tips & tricks to achieving a pocket-door &/or sliding door?


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nealtw

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On the bedroom side behind the light switches build another 2x4 wall, making it double thickness just 6 or 7 feet to enclose the new slider.
 

bud16415

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Would reversing the swing help and have it swing into the bedroom.


If you really want a slider do as Neal suggests.
 

Snoonyb

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Since installing a pocket door will require removing one of the wall surfaces, preferably the bedroom, have the registers changed to floor registers.
 

Sparky617

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All good solutions. How are your skills or what is your budget to hire it out? The light switches and outlet can be moved, the HVAC vent could be changed to a floor mount. Speaking of floor, what is it? Is this on the second floor, first floor over a finished basement, first floor on a slab or first floor over an unfinished basement or crawlspace.
 

MrsStark

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On the bedroom side behind the light switches build another 2x4 wall, making it double thickness just 6 or 7 feet to enclose the new slider.
I have read about doing this to make room for the switches/outlet(s), but wouldn't I have to continue this wall thickening completely across the wall, because of the doorway header? - The way I'm understanding it the wall with the switches/outlet will actually become noticeably thicker, so the doorway header and the wall on the other side with the registers will seem recessed.


Would reversing the swing help and have it swing into the bedroom.
If you really want a slider do as Neal suggests.
... honestly, I'm embarrassed... I had not thought about this at all. It would certainly make life easier in the Bathroom, and with some serious furniture rearranging, could possibly swing into the Bedroom without being a problem there too.


Since installing a pocket door will require removing one of the wall surfaces, preferably the bedroom, have the registers changed to floor registers.
I'm actually really happy you mentioned the registers, because after I posted this last night I started thinking about how the registers/ductwork are actually positioned. When I see registers this close to a wall I immediately think there's ductwork behind that wall, but now that I reason through it (after thinking about @Sparky617 floor question) because it's on the first floor over the crawlspace, with no second floor, there shouldn't be any ductwork behind the walls that would interfere with a pocket-door... right?


All good solutions. How are your skills or what is your budget to hire it out? The light switches and outlet can be moved, the HVAC vent could be changed to a floor mount. Speaking of floor, what is it? Is this on the second floor, first floor over a finished basement, first floor on a slab or first floor over an unfinished basement or crawlspace.
I am so sorry, I completely forgot to mention where this all is; It's on the first floor over the crawlspace, with no second story. As for skills, I'm more than willing to try my hand at something than not, but the more technical aspects (i.e. electrical, etc) I'd feel more comfortable hiring out.
 

Snoonyb

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Correct the duct will have a low profile manifold which can be easily reworked.

The elec. switches can be relocated to the other side of the doorway and would eliminate having to build out the wall.

The pocket door would start after the GFCI recep., which would remain in place.
 

bud16415

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... honestly, I'm embarrassed... I had not thought about this at all. It would certainly make life easier in the Bathroom, and with some serious furniture rearranging, could possibly swing into the Bedroom without being a problem there too.
My dad always said if you want to know the easiest way to do something ask the laziest guy.

Glad i could be of help. :coffee:
 

nealtw

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I have read about doing this to make room for the switches/outlet(s), but wouldn't I have to continue this wall thickening completely across the wall, because of the doorway header? - The way I'm understanding it the wall with the switches/outlet will actually become noticeably thicker, so the doorway header and the wall on the other side with the registers will seem recessed.
I would build the extra wall only what is needed for the door 6 or 7 feet.
 

slownsteady

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I would rule out the barn door. It doesn't seal out steam, noises, odors as well as a the other choices would.
 

mabloodhound

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That heat register can be changed to a floor flush grille if you really want a barn door type (which I hate)
 

Eddie_T

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In my limited experience pocket doors seem a bit clumsy to use plus the thick wall will look a bit goofy. From the photo it would seem that the door would open far enough to be out of the way if you convert to a floor register.
 

Sparky617

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Pocket door hardware fits in a standard width wall. You replace the studs with steel channels with a wood nailing strip on the outward facing part of the steel channel.
 

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