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Trailrider

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Thank you zannej. I think you are correct. I thought more stainless steel might be too much....but then again it will make the range and hood look like all one piece. And of course safety is the big concern. I went with counter top refinishing instead of replacing since removing the counter on the sink side would have ruined the old cabinets. The other cabinets are new so that counter top was already off. The previous owners had one blue counter and one off white counter 😉 I was ready for a change!
 

zannej

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Thank you zannej. I think you are correct. I thought more stainless steel might be too much....but then again it will make the range and hood look like all one piece. And of course safety is the big concern. I went with counter top refinishing instead of replacing since removing the counter on the sink side would have ruined the old cabinets. The other cabinets are new so that counter top was already off. The previous owners had one blue counter and one off white counter 😉 I was ready for a change!
They also sell the stainless steel backsplash with a white coating that is heat-resistant. I need to find the link again. The cheapest one I found was I think a Broan or NuTone one at Lowes. I think they called it a sidesplash. Was around $30 or so if I remember correctly. Others were $60+ all the way up over $300.

There's an aluminium one for a little over $22 but aluminium is not magnetic and it has a lower melting point-- however, the aluminium shelves next to my friend's stove have not had problems: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Broan-Backsplash-Plate-Aluminum/3620992

There's reversible white/almond one of unspecified material for around $28 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Broan-Universal-Backsplash-Plate-White-and-Almond/1042705

And a stainless steel one for close to $40 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Broan-Duct-Free-Universal-Backsplash-Plate-Stainless-Steel/1092009

I think the last one might be best. It helps reflect the light from the range hood. For the corner you can use 1/2" x 1/2" aluminium angle stock https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-2-in-W-x-1-2-in-H-x-3-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3053617 to cover any irregularities if the walls aren't square. It also makes the corner look nicer.

For edges there might be some J-trim or you could use flat aluminium stock.

The stainless steel lets you put magnets on it so you could have a magnetic spice rack mounted up high either behind or on the side of the stove.

Cut kitty btw. Orange kitties can be the sweetest. I've got two of my orange ones on my lap (along with a dog, a classic tabby, a fluffy black cat, and a fluffy black & gray cat).
 

Trailrider

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Zannej, that would be Mike. Yes, he is a love.

I went with a stainless steel 30 x 30 with removable shelf and hooks for utensils. I think hanging the utensils will break up the big amount of SS and help the overall look. Will post pics when installed.
 

zannej

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I love the color of those cabinets, Eddie! I also love how the range hood is covered and has usable space above.
 

havasu

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Eddie, is that a cherry wood, or just the cherry stain? Very good looking, and what my G/F and I are currently debating for my kitchen.
 

Eddie_T

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The cabinets are just plywood, painted and glazed. The photo doesn't show it but the upper cabinets go all the way to the ceiling, top of the doors are about 5½" below ceiling.
 

Spicoli43

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I ripped out a giant island that dominated the kitchen to the point that I couldn't get around the dishwasher (Had to hop over the lid to get to the other cabinets for some dishes) It was one of many ???? things the builder did.

Now, the entire room is open from the front door with all new LVP flooring, half new cabinets and new sink. The Lazy Susan is where I ran out of money, and plan on new upper cabinets as well. The Red paint has to go of course.

I made the countertop from 2x6's and 2x4's, glued, Kreg screwed and routed with a Roman Ogee bit and used some Lifetime wood treatment on it, which is great for that type of wood, but some leaked onto the cabinets so I was forced to stain them as well, which didn't turn out so great. I'm probably going to replace those cabinets, as the Bluish reaction isn't what I am looking for.

Then again, I would probably only replace if I sold, and would put in a marble or quartz countertop anyway.

For me, it's as redneck as it can get, which is perfectly fine. If I ever build a shop, I'll move all that in there. The good thing about home scratch counters is if a piece of the 2x6 goes bad for some reason, I take that piece out and replace it. Using Lifetime treatment, you are supposed to spray it down with water shortly after applying, and it is waterproof from then on.

As far as the oven, NEVER EVER get a double, they flat out don't work. Or, Samsung doesn't work. Either or, the top oven wouldn't heat, so the repair guy showed up, took out the divider between the ovens and said don't ever use the divider and you'll be fine, defeating the purpose of the 2 ovens, which cost hundreds more than a regular oven.
Kitchen.JPGKitchen2.JPG
 

Eddie_T

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I am building a small island on fixed casters. Top will be ≈ 30"x33". Fixed casters will be easy to hide, steadier than swivel while allowing the island to be moved. So far the base is framed in and casters installed. I am designing as I go and mostly using materials on hand except for the Formica and casters.
 

zannej

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Eddie, the pattern for the cabinet doors is something I haven't seen before and it looks very cool. It's a nice stain job too. The movable island idea sounds good.

Spicoli, that weathered wood look is what my friend wanted in his kitchen but the stain wouldn't soak in enough to work-- too much yellow kept showing through. I wonder if I should have pickled them first. The floors look good! Countertops are very cool.

My friend is re-arranging his kitchen more now that he doesn't have to worry about getting griped at by his ex-fiance. He moved the fridge across the room to the opposite corner and put it at an angle. We're going to patch a hole where mice chewed through the wall, move the wall outlet up, install a GFCI outlet instead of regular (since a dishwasher will go there), and he wants to have a butcherblock countertop. He was thinking of getting a corner cabinet, but I suggested taking the microwave cabinet that was put in the laundry room and putting it there so he could use it for the microwave and free up counter space. If a mutual friend and I can get it off the wall (since my friend is not supposed to lift heavy stuff) we can set it in his office and I can stain it and then we can hang it up on the wall and put shelf liner under the microwave. I already got the 24" slim undercabinet light.

He wants to run more upper cabinets along that wall and just cover the giant window. My concern is his ability to anchor the cabinets, but we'll see how that goes. There should be room at the top to grab. I told him if he gives me measurements, I can plug them in to sketchup and come up with a plan.

The butcherblock countertops they sell in stores are horribly expensive, so I'm thinking of DIYing it but not sure what wood would be the best to use or the best way to seal it. The type of countertop he got for the rest of the kitchen has been discontinued (although I wonder if the local burger/fried chicken place has any scraps-- they used that same countertop).
 

Spicoli43

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I am building a small island on fixed casters. Top will be ≈ 30"x33". Fixed casters will be easy to hide, steadier than swivel while allowing the island to be moved. So far the base is framed in and casters installed. I am designing as I go and mostly using materials on hand except for the Formica and casters.
I like your idea much better than mine.

I'm building a rolling island, but it's a beast that will probably be scrapped for a smaller version. I wanted lots of storage space, and got it with 16 drawers (8 each side, 18" x 19") and a large space in the middle for kitchen appliances like blenders etc. where the doors are. The frame is approx. 44" x 71".

That's all good, but as stated it's a beast that would be the only thing to survive a massive earthquake. Without anything in the drawers, it's difficult to move. It's still much better than the island I ripped out, but it's massive overkill.

The frame is recycled 2x4's from a couple of cabinets I had built prior, but I could do the same frame with 1x4's to massively reduce the weight. At any rate, I have to finish some trim and some drawer slides and will use it all winter. Maybe I can find a semi permanent place for it.

Island.JPG
 

Spicoli43

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The butcherblock countertops they sell in stores are horribly expensive, so I'm thinking of DIYing it but not sure what wood would be the best to use or the best way to seal it. The type of countertop he got for the rest of the kitchen has been discontinued (although I wonder if the local burger/fried chicken place has any scraps-- they used that same countertop).
I have seen those prices, that's why I did my own. I would get a 2x6 and cut it in 3 pieces and screw it together with pocket holes if you have a jig, then you can try the Lifetime wood treatment, which will protect it, or you can try Mineral Oil.

If you get the basic fir / pine that Lowe's has, the Mineral Oil will give it an Orange tint, or the Lifetime will eventually soak in to give a rustic look. Here is my small counter a couple months after the other picture, only Lifetime treatment, and a test countertop with only Mineral oil. (And too much wood filler.) I scrapped the Mineral oil idea, and am sticking with the rustic.

I think I'm going to do another test counter this size with the Lifetime, wait until it matures, then try another regular stain to see what happens.

One thing about Mineral Oil, It's either okay for cats or real bad for cats depending on what website you're on. My vet had no idea, so that was another factor, even though a counter with Mineral Oil that had soaked in shouldn't pose a problem.





Small cabinet.JPGExample.JPG
 

zannej

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Thanks, Spicoli!
We used to put mineral oil on cutting boards a friend made for us. He made some out of oak and made some out of purple heartwood. I'll have to see what my friend's preferences are on the countertop look. I wonder if a water resistant wood like cyprus would be a good material. I googled it and maple looks like a common wood, but I haven't seen that available locally. I haven't really looked though.

I'm still trying to figure out what to do with any salvaged pieces of my kitchen's parquet flooring. I want to re-use it somehow.
 

Spicoli43

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Thanks, Spicoli!
We used to put mineral oil on cutting boards a friend made for us. He made some out of oak and made some out of purple heartwood. I'll have to see what my friend's preferences are on the countertop look. I wonder if a water resistant wood like cyprus would be a good material. I googled it and maple looks like a common wood, but I haven't seen that available locally. I haven't really looked though.

I'm still trying to figure out what to do with any salvaged pieces of my kitchen's parquet flooring. I want to re-use it somehow.
Welcome. I would love to try Maple or Oak, but like you say, where is it?

How long are the parquet strips? I would say plane them, but they are probably thin as well?
 

Eddie_T

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Eddie, is that a cherry wood, or just the cherry stain? Very good looking, and what my G/F and I are currently debating for my kitchen.
Just a thought, are you the same havasu that made helpful comments back when I was making the backsplash tile and grout decisions on another forum back in 2012?

Here is a photo of the rest of that countertop from that forum;
 
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BuzzLOL

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I would think you would want to use hardwoods for butcher block tops rather than soft firs or pines. I'm about to cut down some dead walnut trees in my yard that I thought maybe someone would want to buy the wood for gun stocks or other uses... Cut some maple trees a while back... should have saved more of that wood... hardwoods are priced like gold in stores nowadays...
 

zannej

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Eddie, that looks very cool!
Spicoli, the parquet pieces are not very long-- maybe 4 or 5 inches? I'd have to measure, and are relatively thin. I'll have to get pictures at some point.
 

Spicoli43

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I would think you would want to use hardwoods for butcher block tops rather than soft firs or pines. I'm about to cut down some dead walnut trees in my yard that I thought maybe someone would want to buy the wood for gun stocks or other uses... Cut some maple trees a while back... should have saved more of that wood... hardwoods are priced like gold in stores nowadays...
I would cut that tree as large as you can, or at least a little over 12'. I would figure that's Gold anywhere. I would set a high price on Craigs and expect it to be walked down a little.
 
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