How to get these three outlets working?

[Snoonyb]

Okay but are these plastic things gonna do it for high voltage?

With those you can use the standard side screw receptacles and you can dispense with the mobil home switches and receptacles.

 

[farmerjohn1324]

With those you can use the standard side screw receptacles and you can dispense with the mobil home switches and receptacles.

What does that look like?

 

[frodo]

View attachment 14746

black to the brass screw, white to the silver screw
ground to green

 

[farmerjohn1324]

View attachment 14746

black to the brass screw, white to the silver screw
ground to green

Yea I know that. I'm wondering how to hold it in the wall.

 

[Snoonyb]

See the photo in post #56.

 

[frodo]

Yea I know that. I'm wondering how to hold it in the wall.

it has little wings on the side that hold it in place when the screw is turned
go to the store and pick one up, look at it

 

[afjes_2016]

Frodo's post #63
Suggestion: Solderless terminal connectors on a duplex receptacle!
My reply: Really?!!!!

Snoonyb post #53 explains exactly my warning (post #50)! Thank you Snoonyb for explaining that to farmerjohn1324.

Snoonyb post #56 - this "shallow wall" box is good to use only about 35% of the time. Reason is that the design of this box limits its use tremendously to very "thin" wall material (about 1/8"). Once the wall material thickness reaches a bit more it is almost impossible to use this box. I learned my lesson a very long time ago. Because of the design many times it will not sit flush against the wall surface when fastened. Also because where the cable/romex must be placed (far right end) of the box most times there is not enough slack of romex in the wall to accomplish this.

farmerjohn1324: I will say this one more time. Alternatives in any way other than purchasing the mobile home all-in-one receptacle units will end up costing you far more in the end between the cost of the alternative material and your time and most important of all your "temper and frustration"!! Trying to save about $1.26 to $3.01 for each of the ones you need to replace is in my opinion - ah, please wait, I am still thinking of the words to use - can't find any words to fit; so I will say only one thing. You will find out.

Honestly farmerjohn1324 if you don't want to end up tearing the hair out of your head please purchase the proper materials.

You came to this forum for advise from persons that not only know the electrical field as in theory but also have worked in the field and that are sharing with you their experiences.

Afjes_2016 is now signing off.

Note to moderator: Please reduce image size on post #63; it is wacking my monitor out.. Way too wide!
Thank you moderator.

 

[frodo]

Frodo's post #63
Suggestion: Solderless terminal connectors on a duplex receptacle!
My reply: Really?!!!!
Never said to use crimp connectors, He asked what a side terminal plug in looked like and I showed him one,



Snoonyb post #56 - this "shallow wall" box is good to use only about 35% of the time. Reason is that the design of this box limits its use tremendously to very "thin" wall material (about 1/8") 5/8''. Once the wall material thickness reaches a bit more it is almost impossible to use this box. I learned my lesson a very long time ago. Because of the design many times it will not sit flush against the wall surface when fastened. Also because where the cable/romex must be placed (far right end) AND LEFT< JUST FLIP THE BOX of the box most times there is not enough slack of romex in the wall to accomplish this.

The shallow work box will work on 5/8'' sheet rock
LOL...All you do is flip the box over and A MIRACLE happens
It works on the left also

....................

 

[Snoonyb]

And there is nothing preventing the box being used as a "J" box and pigtailing to the device.

 

[farmerjohn1324]

I tested my GFCI. I got 0 on the load and 12 volts (not 120) on the line.

What does this tell me?

 

[frodo]

what did you get on the wire BEFORE the gfi? If you got 120
and then tested the GFI and got zip, Your gfi is toast

 

[farmerjohn1324]

what did you get on the wire BEFORE the gfi? If you got 120
and then tested the GFI and got zip, Your gfi is toast

It was the wire before the GFCI that I tested. Pic attached. Also, what do you think of this other outlet? I can't turn the power off right now because someone is working in here and needs light, but for when I can...

You can see that this mobile home outlet has 3 sheaths of wire going into it. That means 3 hots, 3 neutrals, and 3 grounds. What's that? Also, see the burn mark on the outlet? Is that a probable sign that it's the outlet and not the wiring?

 

[Snoonyb]

12V from what to what?

 

[Snoonyb]

It was the wire before the GFCI that I tested. Pic attached. Also, what do you think of this other outlet? I can't turn the power off right now because someone is working in here and needs light, but for when I can...

You can see that this mobile home outlet has 3 sheaths of wire going into it. That means 3 hots, 3 neutrals, and 3 grounds. What's that? Also, see the burn mark on the outlet? Is that a probable sign that it's the outlet and not the wiring?

Not likely.

You can have a single hot pair and two travelers, which is more likely.

A traveler, goes somewhere else in the circuit.

 

[farmerjohn1324]

12V from what to what?

Line hot --> line neutral

And....

Line hot --> ground

 

[farmerjohn1324]

New info...

I took off that burnt mobile home outlet. One set of wires (on left of pic) reads 120V, the other 2 sets read zero.

What does this tell me as far as fixing this problem?

Perhaps they don't have power because they were getting power from the left wire? So this 0 voltage is just temporary?

 

[nealtw]

That is how it works the power goes from one outlet to the next that way. was that one working before you removed it,

 

[frodo]

wire nut all the blacks togather, add a pigtail wire
wire nut all the whites togather, add a pigtail
wire nut all the grounds and add a pigtail

shove the wire nutted wires into the box
connect the black, white, green to the new plug in device

"Pigtail'' a piece of wire about 6'' long

 

[frodo]

simple, 1 wire into the box, one wire to the light

wire nut the whites , no pigtail

connect the blacks to each side of the switch

connect grounds, use pig tail

 

[farmerjohn1324]

That is how it works the power goes from one outlet to the next that way. was that one working before you removed it,

I got that outlet working. Previously, it was not. Here is my current situation....

After I got that outlet working, the voltage reading at the GFCI changed. It started reading 120V at the line rather than 12V. I was thinking that this meant it would work when I reconnected the outlet, but it doesn't. It is a brand new GFCI. How could it not be working? I put all the wires back to the right places. I am going to get some better sized wire nuts. Two of those (the load wires) were a little small to hold 3 wires, but I don't think that's the problem. Also, there seemed to be some plastic in the outlet holes of the new GFCI. I think I broke through the plastic when I plugged in my saw to test the outlet.

Also, there is still the non-working outlet on the other side of the house. I was hoping fixing that one outlet would fix the other two. Maybe when I fix the GFCI, that other one will get fixed.

As of right now, I have power going in to my GFCI, but not out, despite the fact that it's a brand new outlet.